I have mentioned, in these pages, the unrealised opportunity lying untapped in the sparkling wine category. Finally, Blink is with us. Not only does it carve a niche, but it brings back a fun element, which, frankly, has been absent far too long in Greek wine.
Behind this playfully packaged and named sparkler is Fanny, the 24-year-old and half-French – nobody’s perfect – daughter of veteran oenologist Pavlos Arghyropoulos. Fanny combines her mother’s charm and father’s savvy. So far so good. It actually gets better. The approach of sourcing is an inspired choice. The grapes are organically-farmed Muscat of Alexandria. They are sourced from the northern-Aegean volcanic island of Lemnos, which is more famous for its sweet versions of this popular grape. I enjoyed this newcomer in early December at a melancholic empty summer resort near Thessaloniki. The dusk light dwindled as we were squinting to catch the cormorants dipping about by a mussel farm. This on a backdrop of shades of winter grey melting into the purple rays of the northern Aegean sunset. Occasionally, the hurly-burly life of a wine writer does have its moments! Wine writers know how bad Muscat can be. Vulgar off-putting aromas, misplaced, disjointed flavours are some of the ‘horrors’ we are occasionally exposed to. Well, there is nothing of the sort here. It is as bright as the spring light over the sandy beaches on this off-the-beaten-track island. Residual sugar is on the cusp of the limit of Brut, that is to say 15 g./litre. It is in no way cloying or tiring, thanks to a great fruit/acid balance. It is made with the cuve-close (closed tank) method. As of spring 2010, Blink will also be available in 75-cl. bottles.
Medium- to small-sized mousse. Yellow-golden. Clean floral aroma. Shows varietal-true, enticing lemon flavours. A lift of racy acidity on the juicy finish. Full of personality. On the serious side of fun. Best appreciated soon.
Score: 15.5/20
E-mail: info@blinkwines.com
27.01.2010
2009 Vintage Report
By Nico Manessis
There are glowing reports, on Alsace and Bordeaux. In Greece, it was a difficult vintage. Technicians are still scratching their heads. With no doubt, this year has thrown up formidable challenges in vineyard management. There were fewer regional patterns of uniformity. Suddenly, the already fragmented vineyard has become one of baffling changes. During my month-long autumn tour, a common thread emerged: ‘Sudden (weather) changes.’ In many ways, a strange year, with unusual weather upheaval. More than in any previous year, there was a larger period of cloud cover, which helped the aromatic varieties. North-western Greece was mildew-ridden, eventually ending with rotten grapes. Yet, for some pockets, especially on islands specialising in white wines, straight-talking producers said ‘unusual but good’. Broadly speaking, the year championed the most diligent farmers. Greediness, in red grapes especially, was punished. Those risk-takers triumphed who waited long enough to get ripe pips and the pH’s in ‘windows’ where it made sense to pick.
11.01.2010
