Rapsani Dougos
‘Sense of place’ is an overused cliché. Yet, this Rapsani, from the tiny artisan Dougos vineyards and winery is SOP personified. From a clutch of recently tasted Xinomavro-based blends, this wine had such a clear geographic imprint. It filled me with joy and helped in nailing another little flag in the terroir wine map I have for years been deciphering. Louisa and Thanos Dougos, the energetic sister-and-brother team, are making their mark with yet another characterful red wine. Their white wines are idiosyncratic but that is another altogether different story. It is this Rapsani of which I urge you to get hold of a few bottles to cellar for several years. They will reward you. It is a blend of Kapsala and Tourtoura vineyards. These north-east facing plateaus (550-650 m.), with commanding views over the Thermaikos Gulf, are nestled on the foothills of Mount Olympus. Having recently re-visited these two name places, it reminded me of what exciting wines can be made in the right hands in this region, once prominent and historic for its wines. They may not have had oenologist degrees back in the 19th century. Yet, empirically they fully understood how nature ‘helped’ make good wine if the vineyards were located off the hotter and heavier valley-floor soils and on well-drained, cooler hillsides. If you plan to plant a vineyard then head for the local café, where the old boys will be more than willing to show you the – now mostly abandoned – better sites.
Organic. 60% Xinomavro, 30% Krasato, 10% Stavroto. Flattering nose of tar, warm-fruited, earthy, oriental spice. It keeps evolving to a Pinot Noir-like ‘sweetness’. Firm, though ripe, tannic backbone. Umami-like meatiness. Old vine concentration. Savoury finish brimming with mountain freshness. Carafing recommended. Best 2011 -2017.
Score: 17.5/20
For more details please visit: www.dougos.gr
24.02.2010
2009 Vintage Report
By Nico Manessis
There are glowing reports, on Alsace and Bordeaux. In Greece, it was a difficult vintage. Technicians are still scratching their heads. With no doubt, this year has thrown up formidable challenges in vineyard management. There were fewer regional patterns of uniformity. Suddenly, the already fragmented vineyard has become one of baffling changes. During my month-long autumn tour, a common thread emerged: ‘Sudden (weather) changes.’ In many ways, a strange year, with unusual weather upheaval. More than in any previous year, there was a larger period of cloud cover, which helped the aromatic varieties. North-western Greece was mildew-ridden, eventually ending with rotten grapes. Yet, for some pockets, especially on islands specialising in white wines, straight-talking producers said ‘unusual but good’. Broadly speaking, the year championed the most diligent farmers. Greediness, in red grapes especially, was punished. Those risk-takers triumphed who waited long enough to get ripe pips and the pH’s in ‘windows’ where it made sense to pick.
11.01.2010
