Malagousia late harvest, Ktima Gerovassiliou
A super early bird look at the long rumoured dessert rendition. Evangelos Gerovassiliou is the modern father of this once obscure grape. Before all you clever grape buffs start wondering if it is related to the extended and varied family of Malvasias, the short answer is no. It was spotted by the late Professor Logothetis, who plucked it from a vineyard near Messolonghi. Where you know who died in 1824 and brought Europe’s attention to the war of independence and eventual birth of the modern Greek nation.
In the 1970s, on Logothetis’ suggestion, it was planted at the then new Chateau Carras venture. It was here that Gerovasiliou noted this variety and later introduced it at his estate in Epanomi (founded 1981). The pairing with the bone dry Assyrtiko was such an inspired choice that it went on to attract a broad following. It still continues to be a top selling, merit worthy, dry blend. Malagousia is more than just the Greek vineyard’s answer to Viognier. There is a similarity in profile, but it is ultimately different. In the dry versions one finds fresh basil and cedrat. The apricot in the ‘background’ is not dissimilar to the heady Rhone specialty. In this late harvest effort there are previously unseen aromas partly due to the cellar handling.
2004 was a protracted and cool vintage, with no extreme daytime temperature. One grape cluster was left on each vine and harvested mid-November. It took a year to ferment in small 110 l. French oak casks and was kept on the lies for three and a half years. Alcohol is 13% ABV. Residual sugar 100 gr./l. Acidity (tartaric) 6.8 gr./l. Convenient 500 ml bottles.
Copper pink and golden hued. Reductive style. Floral, white peaches. Warm fruited broad middle palate reminiscent of orange blossom and apricot. Concentrated. Finishes with a long, rich, yeasty and oak lemon sherbet aftertaste. The way it was made bolds well for further ageing. Best from 2010-2014? Tasted: November 2008
Score: 16.5 / 20
More info: www.gerovassiliou.gr
UK agent: www.vickbarwines.co.uk
15.10.2008
