By Nico Manessis

While we all went about our daily chores on March 25th 2008, something happened in the vineyards of Santorini. Flowering was taking place; so far, nothing unusual. Then, gusts of strong winds swept the ‘basket’ vines. It happens every year, but this time the force and timing was such that it reduced the crop. By how much? Before I give you the figures, let me put this into context. In their current size, the vineyards average 3,500 tonnes of grapes annually. When, rarely, the rain is plentiful, such as it was in the winters of 2002 and 2003, the following year’s crop swells to 5,000, even close to 6,000 tonnes.

On this day of March 2008, the wind damage reduced the 2008 crop to 1,200 tonnes. And it triggered a ‘bidding’ war on the finest grapes: prices soared to Euro 1.35 per kg.

Over the years, I have become curious about this wide fluctuation and its ramifications. I think there is a method to help protect this treasure of a vineyard from the vagaries of weather. Perhaps, even, a method applicable to other islands. I first witnessed something to this effect on Syros, which lies north from Santorini. Specifically, on the terraced vineyards of the beautiful estate of the late John Vatis, high above Ermoupolis. What it amounts to is a net with tiny holes. Vatis went on to tell us that it was developed in Israel. He extolled its virtues, as harvest quantity was not affected, and the damage to his trellised vines was minimal.

So, my thinking is, why not protect the vines by positioning protective, circular netting around each vine early in spring, during flowering? Anyone willing to try? Full coverage will be provided on this website. Pics and all.

16.12.2008