Diaporos Kir Yianni
After an acrimonious split with his brother Konstantinos in 1996, Yiannis Boutaris named this Naoussa estate, which he first planted in the late 1960′s, Kir Yianni. Yiannis has now gone into politics.
More importantly, Kir Yianni is now in the hands of his eldest son Stelios. He has sought to introduce some stability and much needed changes. He has implemented an extensive re-planting program, as the inherited Xinomavro vines had for years been working overtime (see large yields) to cater for the negociant needs of Boutari Naoussa Grande Reserve. Remember that old chestnut?
Diaporos is a new cuvee, launched in spring 2008 with much noise at a lavish event at the Zappeion Hall in Athens. So what is all the hoopla about? Is it the breakthrough wine it is claimed to be? Though winemaking is now more modern at the estate, this wine, other than the claimed blend of Xinomavro 87% and Syrah 13%, is stylistically nothing new per se. Contradictory? Bear with me: If all the choices of clones, rootstock and new farming practice are correct, we will not know for quite some time into what direction Stelios and his team of consultants have steered this, now in transition, estate. Such is nature’s pace that it will be years before the new vines settle, pick up age and show how good the anticipated modern profile really is.
One-dimensional kirsch – like nose-twitching spirit. Gamey. Slowly blossoming into spice and some ‘sweetness’. Harsh raw ‘green’ tannins. Bretty. The label states 14.5% ABV, though with no fruit on the palate to pad it out it tastes much higher. Finishes very hot. No terroir imprint which can shine here. The 1994 Pinot Noir mirrored it with laser-like accuracy. In its maiden vintage, Diaporos is another out of sync, rustic Kir Yianni. Not the step forward I would have liked to report.
Score: 14.5/20
For more details see: www.kiryianni.gr
Greece distributor: www.karoulias.gr
23.01.2009
