Limniona Zafeirakis
I have been ‘looking at’ several dark horses from the lesser-known indigenous red varieties. There are some truly unusual and different wines in the works. Now that the so called heritage vines are increasingly coming into the fray (an Australian Assyrtiko is on it’s way), who knows what may catch on and create a worthy following. So, back to the ‘new’ reds: None impressed me more than the high potential of Limniona in the hand of Christos Zafeirakis. To all of you keen on our varieties, Limniona (Greek spelling with omega) is not to be confused with Limnio. Let’s look as to what has been unfolding in Tyrnavos. In his late twenties, Christos Zafeirakis will be much talked about in the future. A brilliant farmer and oenologist with valuable work experience in Northern Italy, he comes across far more mature than his age. He and others such as Louiza and Thanos Dougos and Melina Tassou are the latest clutch of breezy characters to enliven the wine scene.
First glance, the rather dowdy front label has the outline of a mechanism in the background. For an instant, it reminded me of a navigation instrument, such as a sextant, and then the fascinating Antikythera instrument – an early computer of sorts. Well, the forensics of the front label are divulged on the back label. It states that it is a piece of a watch unearthed in the vineyard where the densely planted (in 2005) Limniona took a new lease of life. And who does not have a label story. The Scops owl heard late at night by the label designer. Or the engraved initials of the Polish stonemason found by accident while picnicking on the terraced vineyards in Switzerland’s Valais. The current crop of Greek labels is in dire need of improvement. If one opens their eyes and ears a little, who knows what is right there under our nose.
So, what is all the fuss for such a young vine ‘newcomer’? Many sub plots. Some clues. The vines are trained high to achieve balanced, fully ripened, grapes. The little that is known by technicians is that this thick skinned grape has remarkable resistance to oxidisation, hence ageing potential. Since 2000, much thought and research has been done by Zafeirakis and a leading nursery. It is ongoing, as the farming know-how of this virtual unknown has only just started to be documented. From my front row seat, fascinating stuff. For wine lovers it is nothing but good news.
The grapes were initially fermented in a large wooden vat and then aged in second and third fill French oak barriques. Vivid medium-dark, not unlike a great Burgundy. Blossoming into a fruited spice. A new to me aroma; so far nothing remotely like it in the Greek vineyard. A nod of herbs. Creamy. Classy. Despite the ‘heat’ of the vintage, a refreshingly present acidity. Lacey. At this stage, a little facile (young vine playfulness) on the finish. With bottle ageing, it will open up. One of the most exciting ‘re-discoveries’. Available as of autumn 2009.
Score: 16,5/20
Contact e-mail : zafeirakischristos@gmail.com
If your travel’s take you to Litochoro on Mt. Olympus, the only address pre-viewing the maiden vintage of this Limniona, enjoy(responsibly) their hand crafted Kozani saffron flavoured tsipouro. www.gastrodromio.gr
15.04.2009
