Mantinia Nasiakos
One of the regions to measurably improve through warmer climate conditions is the Mantinia plateau (650-700 m.) in central Peloponnesus. Here, the pink-skinned blanc de gris Moschofilero varietal wines are now more aromatic and flavourful. Yet, they still retain their useful aperitif-sipping qualities, their lip-smacking refreshing factor and their high-acid, grapey character. A pioneer in the region, Nasiakos was recently merged and is now the third of the Semeli wineries.
The soils at Zevgolatio are on the heavy side, mostly clay. The father of modern Mantinia, the great late Constantine Antonopoulos (Orina Ktimata) held these vineyards in high regard back in the 1990s. The Nasiakos example is made with grapes mostly from Zevgolatio. To me, it is proof that these moisture-retaining, heavy soils are now coming into their own. The fundamental problem of this region is overcropping. Yields are ludicrously high. Therefore, there are few Mantinias at this moment that move into the coveted select club of terroir wines, with Santorini at the pinnacle of the white wine firmament.
Synthetic closure. Attractive green tints. Discreet lemony-grapey aroma. Light and insistent smokey minerality with a linear persistent dry finish. The lasting impression is of elegance which just lingers. Smart new packaging. The three secateurs on the graphics of this worthy effort are not only to artistic merit; they moreover signal that the message of the lower yield is taken. One of the few refined Mantinias on a scene cluttered with either over-the-top fruit bombs or ultra-commercial syrupy sweet mediocrities.
Score : 16.5/20
For more details please visit: www.semeli-wines.gr
9.10.2009