Giniets Cabernet Sauvignon Rossiu di Munte Katogi
Early October, Metsovo. It has been a strange spring and summer, especially in north-western Greece. Unusually high rainfall and cooler weather, which was even more accentuated up here in the Pindos. Just as the Katogi new wine bar opened in July, daytime temperatures dropped to+7 C! Short bursts of heat spells never materialised. Hence, autumn colours of infinite variations of yellow, brown and rust are, less pronounced. As I write these words, the mist is thick over the surrounding mountains. It is pouring down. In the Katogi steep hillside vineyards only the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes are still on the vines. They will be harvested around mid to late October. Quantity up here is a guessing game. Beyond weather vagaries, a further culprit comes in the guise of a four-legged creature: the brown bear, native to Pindos. Bears have already taken their share of the earlier-ripening aromatic Traminer and Pinot Noir. They do not return for the CS, until acidity levels drop and the skin of this ubiquitous grape is less tannic.
Yet, the bear issue goes beyond the vineyard. Their natural habitat has been interrupted by the newly-finished Egnatia freeway. The insufficient provision of safe passages for the animals and proper fencing has caused serious accidents. Electric fencing is now to be installed. This solution is not financially viable for the Katogi vineyards. Annual losses run upwards of 15-20% of the harvest.
Two new entries have been added to the promising native red Vlahiko and Pinot Noir in the Rossiu di Munte series. These limited-production wines are only available at cellar-door sales. So if you venture to this mountain range you may glimpse a bear or two. Apparently, a mother and cub were captured on a mobile phone camera crossing a paved road within sight of the vineyard one mid-summer afternoon. Though there are several Greek Syrah-Viogniers on the scene, this variation with Traminer is a first, to my understanding . Though ever-demanding Greek-wine lovers seem to have turned their backs in numbers to most Cabernet Sauvignon-based or varietal wines, Syrah is their new sweetheart non-indigenous grape. Not a surprising change, as there are several Syrah vineyards with wonderful vins de terroir emerging in diverse soils, altitudes and latitudes.
2007 Giniets Cabernet Sauvignon Rossiu di Munte Katogi
A vineyard selection of the first-planted, now 40-year-old CS vines. Tobacco leaf. Reminiscent of the “darker” character of my personal favourite Cabernet Franc. Cedar. Mineral-laden, with schist to the fore. Crushed red currants. Tight-grained tannins. More mineral soil and cask, smokey notes. Concentrated. Dormant. Carafing recommended. Best 2011-2018.
Score: 17.5/20
For more information please visit: www.katogihotel.gr
For more Katogi reviews please go to Tasting – Epiros
See Video: The Katogi Winery and Wine Bar in the Pindos
13.11.2009
