A highlight of my autumn vineyard tour was time spent with distiller Giorgos Zirnovalis. He was generous in sharing his insight while going about his, as he put it, ‘usual for this time of year 15-hour days’. Considered as one of the best in his profession, he remains a humble person. Professional satisfaction was obvious but no ego. I came away with a sense that he is part flair and part discipline. Some pride too. Of the many grapes he distils, he rates Sauvignon Blanc especially high. Such praise for SB was new to me. But then, mostly due to my teaching commitments, I do not spend as much time as I would like with distillers. To my palate, for several reasons, the Moscato stood apart. The difference to tsipouro (grappa) is that this Moscato is the distillation of only grape berries minus stems. How does it differ? Well, a fiery vinous element, found in many a tsipouro, is not part of the equation. A fuller, more gentle character comes through. There are close to 3,000 Muscat variations. This grape spirit is made from the Muscat of Alexandria. Methexis? From the classical theatre: methexis is participation.
Crystal clear. Floral. Lemon blossom. Spicy. Intensely flavoured, round, grapey mid-palate. Clean, textured finish. Initial lemon zestiness leading to rose petal tea-like softness. Aftertaste of Gewurztraminer. Lightly chilled enhances the viscous smooth richness.
Score: 17.5/20
For more information, please visit: www.domaine-lazaridi.gr
US importers
California: www.greekfoodandwine.com
All other States: www.nestorimports.com
2.12.2009
