By Nico Manessis

There are glowing reports, on Alsace and Bordeaux. In Greece, it was a difficult vintage. Technicians are still scratching their heads. With no doubt, this year has thrown up formidable challenges in vineyard management. There were fewer regional patterns of uniformity. Suddenly, the already fragmented vineyard has become one of baffling changes. During my month-long autumn tour, a common thread emerged: ‘Sudden (weather) changes.’ In many ways, a strange year, with unusual weather upheaval. More than in any previous year, there was a larger period of cloud cover, which helped the aromatic varieties. North-western Greece was mildew-ridden, eventually ending with rotten grapes. Yet, for some pockets, especially on islands specialising in white wines, straight-talking producers said ‘unusual but good’. Broadly speaking, the year championed the most diligent farmers. Greediness, in red grapes especially, was punished. Those risk-takers triumphed who waited long enough to get ripe pips and the pH’s in ‘windows’ where it made sense to pick.

Epirus & Macedonia

Heavy spring and unusual early-summer rains caught most growers in Amyndeon, Goumenissa, and Naoussa unprepared. Mildew was omnipresent. One farmer I visited was ‘praying’ for a mini heat wave. It never materialised. In hotter and usually dry Drama, it is the year of freshness, lacking the usual heat imprint. One of several pleasant surprises.

Sterea Ellada

The weeklong fires in north-eastern Athens suburbs were an ecological disaster. Adjacent vineyards were affected with smoke taint. Ironically, the vineyards not close to these ravaging fires benefited from the early September rains. By the time harvest begun around September 10, the old-vine Savatiano came up with good, if not great, wines. Even at a usefully low 12.3% ABV, they are brimming with typicity. Further north, in Boeotia and onto the nearby island of Evia, the imported grapes are quite good. There is bright fruit and all-around freshness. Syrah was a near star.

Peloponnesus

The northern shoreline and Patra was average and lower. The usually dependable high-altitude Roditis of Aigialia was not helped by the higher yields. Nemea had not faced such early rains since the 2002 wash-out. Storms broke out on September 6. The weather held for four days, and the heavens opened. The ugly face of politics, in the broader sense, appeared with a promise of subsidies. Some things never change. Therefore, only 2,000 tonnes of healthy grapes were harvested from the estimated 18,000 tonnes. Old bush vines, of which there are few, made little but decent wine. All high-yield vineyards are at best weak to poor. ‘Anaemic’ was one farmer’s succinct comment. Mantinia: The landlocked plateau right in the middle of the grape garden of Greece. Summer rains and cooler temperatures helped the blanc de gris Moschofilero maintain its aromatic profile and balance. For the most part there are good wines. The best-farmed sites excelled.

Ionian Islands

Cephalonia: The island which challenges Santorini for one-of-a-kind, bone-dry wine, is Cephalonian Robola. Winter and perfectly timed spring rainfall increased from an average (2002-2008) of annual participation of 600-800 ml. to 1,250 ml. For the time being, it appears that normality has returned. Southern-facing slopes retained moisture throughout summer. June showers affected the valley of Saint Gerassimos at 600 m. but not the southern-facing high slopes which reach up to 800 m. The vines looked healthy green with no external signs (yellowing leaf) of water stress. Grapes were harvested ten days later than in 2008. Ripening evenly, bringing out super fruit and, early on, their minerality. Acidities are amongst the highest ever. An unqualified success, with crisp, minerally wines that capture the limestone-dominated terroir.

Aegean Islands

Samos: The source of great fortified (and a little unfortified) dessert Muscat. Winter and early summer showers and the absence of heat-waves have propelled it amongst the top-performing island vineyards. Floral and zesty aromas. Vibrancy, in all styles. Santorini, which lies 35N, never ceases to amaze me. This far south and with the desiccating winds one does not usually mention malic acid. Yet, spring and summer was cool enough for 1.5 gr./l. of malic acid to be present at harvest time. As a veteran put it: ‘In twenty harvests I have never encountered malic acid’. Grape picking commenced the first week of August and then it turned… cold! Conscientious winemakers stopped. Nocturnal temperatures dropped, maturity inched at snail’s pace forward. Harvest recommenced August 16th. First impressions? Atypical Santorinis. A notch lower in alcohol levels, juxtaposed with terrific, new to me on this island, grapefruit-citrus aromas that carry through on the palate. Rhodes: The south-eastern Aegean island and the template for Athiri. In off vintages this island usually comes up top. Not this time. Mostly average. More complex with good body wherever the grapes matured in the earlier part of the harvest. As our friends in America say, ‘go figure’. Crete: The white wines from central Crete are exceptional, highlighting the floral spicy character of the Vilana grape. Wines of character and lift. The reds are a mixed bag: Only the best-managed vineyards produced great fruit. Wines have soft tannins. Heavy rains on September 11-12 created havoc on the latter-harvested reds.
Time may prove me wrong. I will stick my neck out on this. During my 16-year beat, the near- clockwork regular, variations on a theme, across-the-board quality of Greek harvests (with the odd washout as in 2002) has been confined to statistical records. Lack of rainfall, when needed, extended heat waves, higher nocturnal temperatures and, above all, ‘sudden changes’ have brought new issues and challenges to this eastern Mediterranean vineyard. My point? Vines have genes that have adapted to local conditions. With the climatic parameters now ‘stretched’, we have sailed into uncharted territory. So far, the only benefit from all of these weather vagaries is communication. The increased dialogue between farmers, agronomists, oenologists and nurseries is nothing short of fascinating. There is plenty to think about.

11.01.2010