Goumenissa Single Vineyard I Aidarinis
Have not been in ages this excited for a Xinomavro blend. Christos Aidarinis, a stalwart in the Goumenissa appellation, has, with this Single Vineyard I, nailed it on the head. Life for a grape farmer is not easy in this sleepy appellation, nestled in the foothills of Mount Paiko (1,650 m.). Vintages are dodgy. Heavy rainfall during harvest time is often an issue. This was not the case in 2007. In fact, the heat wave, coupled with careful farming, coaxed the finicky Xinomavro and the ‘sister’ grape in this appellation, Negoska, into ripening evenly and fully. Other factors come into play here. The vineyard was planted in 1978, so these are arguably old vines. Furthermore, the rolling hills of Gymni Rachi, from where this wine hails, is another pearl of information on the unlocked potential of Goumenissa. A hunch: ‘Gerakona‘ is another (potentially great?) red-wine terroir. Now, a favour: May someone come up with an answer to this question: Why on earth is the smart money not quietly investing in this unrealised-potential patch of Xinomavro-Negoska tapestry?
Fragrant, not unlike what only great Burgundy and Barolo can be. Hide and seek, as both grapes feed off and complement each other. Crunchy red fruit alternating with sous bois earthiness. Mid-palate is chock-a-block of fine-grained tannins. Tasty freshness on the finish. Exemplary winemaking and gentle use of oak. Keeps unfolding in the glass. Hallmarked by terroir and finesse. Best 2010-2015.
Score: 17/20
E-mail: aidarini@otenet.gr
11.01.2010
