Athiri Santo Wines
One never knows what Santorini’s volcanic embrace holds. During a five-day visit, with tastings at nine wineries, the most unexpected wine was the Athiri produced by Santo Wines (the Cooperative). In this instance, the saying ‘wine has the last word’ could not hold more true.
Historians tell us Athiri has been in the southern Aegean islands since classical times. For years, my textbook example has been Athiri found amongst pine forests and stony slopes on Mount Ebonas, on southern Rhodes. Athiri on Santorini is part of the vineyard mix. Placed between the bold-tasting Assyrtiko and the softer, fragrant Aidani. Athiri does not have an easy life here. It is prone to rot. The summer maritime humidity more often does take its toll. Nevertheless, in recent memory, the generally delicate Athiri has had a chance to shine on its own here. The 2009 Greek vintage was difficult. (Look for my vintage report under Articles).
Santo Wines have been trying hard to raise their game. Oenologist Nikos Varvarigos has both the vision and tools to commit considerable resources on this blue-chip, demanding terroir. There is marked improvement throughout their range. Light years away from their past mediocrities I first experienced in the 1990s. Residual sugar and other off-the-mark, directionless styles.
During tasting with the reserved Nikos Varvarigos in what must be one of the most sublime views in the world, overlooking the Caldera and the youngest volcanic island of Nea Kameni, the 2009 Athiri quietly grabbed my attention. It was a revelation. This limited release, all of 3,000 bottles, sold only at the cellar door, is the near-perfect spring-summer sipping wine. It does not have the staying power of the Assyrtiko-based Santorinis. It will hold through autumn. As my turbo-propped plane swooped up into the cloudy sky, I could not stop wondering how such frail beauty could be born in such a hostile, windswept ecosystem. Ditto for a certain saying on wine.
Skin contact, resulting in white flowers, honeysuckle. Faint minerality. Soft, juicy, layered mineral persistence. Subtle, long finish. Digestive and refreshing. Elegant. Hugely surprising. A rare treat.
Score: 16.5/20
For more details, please visit: www.santowines.gr
29.03.2010
