Aidani Estate Argyros
Assyrtiko-based Santorini, is a complex, full-throttle, mineralic vin de terroir. One thing it is not is an aperitif wine. Yet, in the numerous white grapes found in the vineyard, the last of the 3 As (Athiri, Assyrtiko and Aidani) is the most aromatic. Very little of it is grown on the island, it is highly prized, especially sought to brighten up the aromatic profile of the expensive, sweet, sun-dried Vinsanto. Aidani commands Euro 1.45 per kg. versus Assyrtiko’s Euro 1.05 kg. (prices for the 2009 vintage). Approaching harvest, there is much café-lobbying and vivid mobile-phone bidding by the now 13 wineries on this one-of-a-kind, historic island vineyard.
The island’s Canava with the oldest and finest Vinsanto reserves is the third-generation and fourth-generation father Yannis and son Mattheos Argyros. 10 years ago, they planted 1.2 hectares of Aidani in Episkopi Gonias, in the time-honoured and unique to this island basket-shaped pruning. Most of their Aidani ends up in the class-leading Vinsanto. As of 2005, a limited quantity is bottled as a varietal. As chronicled in my 2009 vintage report (see under Articles), the unusually cooler summer and harvest conditions played handsomely into enhancing the aromatic subtleties of this Cycladic-island rarity. Yannis Argyros adds, “We were not looking to add another label (there are 10) but wanted to show this as a varietal. To date, the 2009 is the most complete vintage.” Another factor for suggesting this wine as a sipping wine is the lower alcohol of 12.5% ABV, approximately one degree less than Assyrtiko-based wines. It is longer lived than the fragile Athiri (see my recent posting on the exceptional Santo Wines example). At this level, this Aidani will keep its vibrancy for up to two years.
Pale yellow-green tints. Fragrant. Lemon blossom with a smokey mineral background. Textured. Richly flavoured. Crisp bone-dry bracing pyritic finish. A great balancing act, combining the floral aromatics and the unmistakable pronounced terroir. Classy and stylish. A different facet of this never a dull terroir.
Score: 17.5/20
For more details please visit www.estate-argyros.com
20.04.2010
