Sigalas Santorini
20.00 hours. King Ra was just about to disappear into the pink-grey of the Aegean. I glanced over my shoulder and saw a paraglider hovering majestically over the Caldera. With the thermal bouncing off the volcanic rock, he occasionally went into in a holding pattern resembling number 8. This Caldera sighting of the bird-man swooping over the whitewashed domes and orange-purple sky was new to me. Improvisation struck, a plan was hatched. To drive towards this modern-day Icarus and follow him to his landing spot. Hopefully, to get a comment on what it is like flying off the Caldera, to ask him about his bird’s-eye view take on the vineyards. Who knows? He may even appreciate wine. Then the plan went terribly wrong: The cell-phone went off with news of change of address for our supper rendezvous. By the time I was back on track, the bird-man had flown overland to Faros (Akrotiri), where he became a hazy blur before I eventually lost sight of him. If I am to bag the bird-man, I will have to check wind forecasts on sailing websites.
This Caldera scene was still vivid when in the kitchen of our beach-front taverna we had gone through the Greek ritual of selecting ‘’our victims’’. I was now faced with two large glass-door refrigerators. In them, a varied selection of the island’s bone-dry whites and an assortment of other Greek wines. I pointed the 2009 Sigalas to the bearded taverna owner, whose elongated craggy looks remind me of a French actor whose name has shamelessly joined my ever-growing pantheon of “anonymous” heroes.
The 2008 Santorini vintage was good. As were the 2005 and the 2007, though not a match for the exceptional 2006. Perhaps the 2009 will match it, or surpass the 2006. By summer 2011 a clear picture will emerge of how it stacks up. (See Articles: The 2009 Vintage Report). Evenings are not the best time for review. Mornings are far more suited to deconstructing a wine. Yet, despite the day’s fatigue and fast-dropping adrenalin, this 2009 Sigalas Santorini shone like a beacon. It is still going through the motions, heading for its starting point. From the very first sip, it was lively and complete, if a little subdued. Cellar this wine. It will reward your patience. Look at it periodically and (re)-discover a great terroir of the Greek vineyard.
Platinum and green tints. Floral, reminiscent of vines flowering. Seamlessly flows on into aromas of flint and green tea. Fireworks of crisp minerality kicking in with a lemony, stony, layered palate. Very long, refined, classy aftertaste. A saline iodine postscriptum. In “reading” the empty glass, a lesson in expression(s) of wine minerality unfolds. Best as of 2011-2018.
Score: 18.5/20
For more details please visit: www.sigalas-wine.com
Belgium: www.pasqualinno.be
China: www.asianbeveragecompany.com
USA: www.diamondwineimporters.com
15.06.2010
