Weather

Prolonged spring rain brought downy mildew in places. Summer temperatures were steady, with no jarring extremes. Yields were down, which helped overall quality. In spite of a flat market there was shortage of red grapes. Harvest conditions were varied, but overall healthy. In some appellations showers actually helped. Autumn started overcast, with a notable drop in temperatures. This was followed by an Indian summer. Perfect for the late harvesting of red grapes. Tasted wines show no alcoholic imprint. Attractive in these early stages. Bright fruit. Balanced. An opportunity for regional differences to shine. Added bonus? Typicity in the more-demanding grapes.

Peloponnese
Achaia: Walked two name places at 840 m and 920 m. Mountainous horizon. One peak faded onto another. An idyllic setting, yet far from easy to farm, I learned. Lack of water in these hills means overstressing of vines is an issue; there are (cumbersome) solutions, though. Climate change? Hot air mass waves originating from the Thessaly plain present new farming challenges. It appears that nature has yet to adapt to fast-paced, extreme changes. Which means, up here, a mixed bag, in contrast to an exceptionally good 2010.

Nemea: Quantity down by 40% from the (recent) average of 15,000 tonnes. Healthy grapes, normal- and smaller-sized berries. Tasting the grapes that are delivered to wineries is instructive: The tastier grape, think of aroma on the palate, were good. No surprise that the best sites (and farmers) achieved this ‘‘aromatic’’ hallmark. Neutral-tasting grapes are destined for bulk- and entry-level labels. Going carefully over the numerous cluster variations one wonders how many types of Agiorgitiko exist. A trustworthy technician mentioned 280. One thing is certain: Agiorgitiko has been around for a very long time. Good colour, charming wines oozing character.
Laconia: The difficult in farming white grape Kydonitsa was bar none the single most remarkable tank tasted. A smoky mineral charged with gravitas fruit bomb. Simply, there is nothing else like it in the Greek vineyard. Photographer Kostantinos Pittas who rarely comments on our daily tastings was smitten. Forget Malagousia. ‘’ Little quince’’ has it all. Aroma, fruit and acidity. Minerality? It transposes the windswept rocky arid environment it struggles in this eastern ‘‘finger’’ of the Peloponnese. Untapped high potential.

Central Greece

Hinterland of Thebes: Quantities were down. Delicate aromatic Savatiano showed more typicity than the blowsy 2010s. Terrific, new to me Assyrtiko. Is this the birth of a new terroir for this star grape? The obscure dark-skinned Mouchtaro may not be the next best thing in the Greek vineyard. Useful in blends with cosmopolitan varieties, such as Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, for rosé or dry red wines.

Tyrnavos: Thanks to an up and coming address, another pleasant surprise. Summer was cooler, with marked diurnal temperature variation. Re-discovered floral Limniona is poised, balanced. This cultivar is not to be confused with the demanding Limnio grown in Macedonia.

Northern Greece

Thrace: What a difference from recent previous visits! A still hazy terroir has grown up, slowly coming into focus. Fragrant, soft, mouth-watering. Star? The difficult to ripen Limnio. Have never seen this historic, though now obscure, grape deliver its distinctive identity.

Drama: in all colours, very impressive. Lip-smacking freshness in whites. Rosés are pleasing, with their refreshing bone-dry factor. Reds, varietal or blends, have taken this re-energised region a notch up. They will be talked about.
Kavala: A terroir is unfolding in these foothills of Mount Pangeon, influenced by the cooling breezes of the northern Aegean shoreline. Vibrant freshness, grapey whites. A new dimension of added depth in red blends. These are all worthy efforts.

Naoussa: In 17 years of field trips I have never tasted such attractive site translation (early November). Good colour. Perfumed complexity. Tasty ripe tannins. Elegance. Interesting to follow how these seductive wines develop. There was a change of guard in several underperforming estates. As reported elsewhere in these pages the so-called “Naoussa gang” 30-somethings are upping their game. This, shrinking in acreage, historic region needed this kick start. Look out for forthcoming reviews from a clutch of estates in transition.

Amyndeon: Vineyard hygiene was not the best; affected with downy mildew. Diligent farmers were rewarded with a small yet high-quality crop. Exciting Xinomavro sparkling Blanc de noir developments emphasize the increasingly understood talents of this cooler plateau. Xinomavro’s and blends are complete.
Siatista: What a change the Egnatia highway has brought to this, once important, historic old-vine region famous for its late-harvest Xinomavro and Moschomavro dessert wines! The fur business may not be what it once was, with most of the manufacturing moving to China. Nevertheless, I sensed a renewed interest for dry red wine. Met with several younger and older farmers. Soft, spicy aroma. Discreet. Whispering; not shouting. A new to me Xinomavro expression. Extolling the virtues of a wine made from 87 year old vines, I urged vineyard owners not to uproot the precious DNA pool of surviving old vines.

Aegean

Santorini: Cool weather patterns sealed a terrific vintage. It equals the 2009, perhaps surpasses the exceptional 2006. High standards in all the top names. Citrus-pear aroma, crisp fruit on the mineral-charged template, are all highlighted from some of the highest acidities on record. A keeper.

For 17 years I visited his vineyards and Canava. Clam-like, he slowly opened up. Eventually, in a measured and frank manner, we spent precious hours tasting from dozens of Vinsanto casks and older vintages of bone-dry wines. However, it was his profound understanding of the shrinking Santorinian sub-regions – Akrotiri, Megalochori, Pyrgos, Episkopi, Imerovigli – that was truly impressive. He also knew who the best farmers were. These were some of the fascinating aspects of this self-taught winemaker. His legacy lives on in the stunning collection of Vinsanto. In fact, it was this man’s persistence and continuous investment that singlehandedly repositioned Santorini Vinsanto as Greece’s top sweet wine. One of the great dessert wines to find anywhere in the world, it is expensive to produce and requires extensive ageing. Rewards include a searing acidity and a unique mineral character. His son Mattheos (29) has been groomed to continue this family business, now in its fourth generation.

On my last visit in June 2011, prior to his being diagnosed with cancer, I entered his tiny courtyard. He had some type of measuring instrument made of transparent material. It resembled a bicycle pump. I had never seen anything like it before. He pumped and looked at the gauge. “What is this?”, I asked, to which he retorted, “You tell me.” My deduction was that he was checking carbonic gas levels of the 2010 vintage. It was so, that was Yannis. Always thinking ahead. Always the perfectionist, protecting his wines. During the course of 40 years, he amassed the finest reserves of the island’s Vinsanto. In my ’The Greek Wine Guide and The Illustrated Greek Wine Book, his vintage Vinsanto was the only one regularly garnering 5 stars.

The last time I saw him was under happy circumstances. His great love was horses. He kept a couple. He was riding out with one of his son-in-laws on a balmy Saturday afternoon. They rode out to Monolithos, a black volcanic beach. Skimming the waves of the Aegean. Brimming with joy. A humble and gentle man. Farewell, Yannis Argyros.

One learns about grape varieties by walking. Knowing where and how they are farmed partly helps decipher the sub-regional puzzle. Occasionally, there is a reward – that magic word, terroir. Memorable moments? Discovering high Roditis amongst the pine-forest terraces in Egialia. Untangling the complicated links of Amyndeo Xinomavro and today’s Naoussa. Most recent discovery? Standing on a patch of centenary Vidiano in the shadow of Crete’s Mount Psiloritis (2456 m.). There is more ground to cover. Santorini was top of my shortlist. Finally, the right people were in place. Truth is, little did I know what I was getting myself into.

The central character of Lea Binzer’s film Pelican’s Watch (www.pelicanswatch.gr), Nikos Pelekanos, is one of the island’s awesome grape growers. Modest and factual, Nikos is also a thinker. His formidable self-taught knowledge is as refreshing as the Meltemi wind that blows through the Aegean in the summer. While shooting a forthcoming video on the two main Santoriniote pruning methods, I sensed Pelekanos’s zen-like rapport with this extraordinary vineyard. Ages when I last met with such a steward of the land. One of my early questions to him was how many grape varieties he can identify. “30 to 34”. Yet, as our long-planned walk unfolded, it turned out it was not that simple of an answer. At my invitation, leading grape specialist Kostas Bakassietas joined us. Donning a hat, water bottle in hand, I followed this meeting of minds. Initial contact between the two reminded me of the morning fog that engulfs these extreme vineyards. Eventually, contact was made, and several points of mutual interest emerged. Some highlights: Mavrotragano has such vigour, Bakassietas feels, that it is best suited to the poorer soils of Akrotiri, rather than premium sites, such as the slopes of Pyrgos and Megalochori. By the second day, my companions had identified 27 varieties and three mystery grapes. Name places Kontarades and Tourlos were logged, amongst others. Bakassietas took pictures of leaves and green grape clusters. My duties? Secretarial. Noting on a clipboard points dictated by Bakassietas – locations, plant differences, picture indexing. Apparently, I passed the audition. Eventually, I felt comfortable to join ‘‘their’’ world. I fired off to Pelekanos: In winter, with no leaves helping to identify a vine, how does he recognize what he is about to prune?

“The colour of the wood.” Long silence, as mutual appreciation between farmer and technician illuminated both faces. We walked from sunrise to sunset. Breaking for lunch, debriefing, planning. Gulls flew over our heads. Ferries came in and out of focus in the haze. Even jet streaks kept us company. Yet, neither of us would ever see this historic vineyard in the same manner again. I am still taking it all in.

Viticultural Environment describes the abiotic factors of a given site interacting with grapevine and affecting its growth and development. Man had long recognized the importance of the natural habitat in which the vine grows for the sensory attributes of the wine, and described it by the notion of ‘terroir’. Seguin (1988) defined terroir as an interactive ecosystem in a given place, including soil, climate and the vine. The concept of terroir has been so highly regarded among wine producers and connoisseurs that led to the establishment of a system of appellations of origin for the most prestigious wine-producing areas, responsible for the hierarchy in selling prices. In today’s market, “terroir’ wines are often distinguished as being closer to the vineyard conditions and grape cultivar and less affected by winery processing.

So, are all the great wines the result of a perfectly balanced terroir or is it possible to manage and control the environment in which grapes are produced according to our objectives?

First of all, let’s make clear that there is no such thing as a perfect terroir, that is, an ideal combination of climate and soil factors, leading to the production of premium wines. Great wines can be produced in a wide variety of soils, from deep and finely textured to shallow and poor, depending on the style of wine. This means that, contrary to existing beliefs, stony and sandy soils or limestone soils, to name a few examples, do not have the absolute privilege of being suitable for quality wines. The effect of soil on vine behavior and grape composition is complex and largely depends on the general climate of the area, as well as the cultivar itself, mainly its vigor and earliness. For instance, in a warm and arid climate of the Mediterranean zone, it is impossible to grow quality grapes on shallow soils, especially from early-ripening varieties such as Sauvignon blanc or Chardonnay. Under such conditions, the limited water and nitrogen supply will greatly reduce vine vigor and accelerate ripening, thus decreasing the aromatic expression in the wine. However, soils of limited depth and fertility are ideal when growing red varieties under cooler climatic conditions.

Another common belief is that only “cool climate” areas can produce wines of typicity and style, the warmer areas being just too hot for quality wines. This generalization was mostly the result of the widespread use of French varieties, originating from areas of mild climatic conditions, thus adapted to attain full ripeness under moderate heat loads. In fact, thermal needs are highly variable among grapevine cultivars and can lead to differences in harvest time (for the same site) of as much as 2 months. This implies that grapevine can be successfully grown in a wide variety of climatic conditions, providing that variety and regional climate are correctly matched (i.e. late ripening varieties for warmer areas and early ones for cooler areas).

So, where does the vine grower stand in this context and what is the contribution of vineyard management in determining wine attributes, as compared to the role of the environment? Moreover, is it possible to mediate wine quality using an agronomic approach, under suboptimal environmental conditions?

The answer is yes, but within certain limits and depending on the goals set by the winemaker. That means that, for the production of premium wines, the result of vineyard management techniques will be greater as long as climate and soil conditions are as close as possible to the favourable range of the variety.

This agronomic approach includes both permanent as well as seasonal practices. Among permanent choices a vine grower has to make to exploit the full potential of a given site, is the choice of planting density, row orientation and training system. For example, low (and not high) density, coupled to more elaborate training systems, is desirable on fertile soils to control vine vigor. Under hot climates, it is also better to abstain from the traditional north-south orientation to protect the grapes from direct sunlight exposure. Possible adaptation will also include the choice of rootstock which can greatly influence scion vigor and precocity. Seasonal techniques, often described under the term ‘canopy management’, mainly aim to control leaf and grape microclimate and restore vine balance to enhance berry ripening. For instance, leaf removal should be chosen depending on the variety and climate (less for Sauvignon in warm areas to prevent aroma loss, more for Cabernet in cool areas to increase colour and reduce methoxypyrazines etc.). In this context, irrigation is probably the most powerful tool for grape growers, as it affects many vine physiological parameters.

In sum, the “terroir” effect is more pronounced when grape variety is correctly chosen according to climate and soil factors. As we move away from these conditions, vineyard management techniques become more and more important in achieving the desirable results. Today’s advances in viticultural science and practice, have greatly contributed in increasing grape and wine quality, especially in areas where vine cultivation was recently introduced.

Η κλιματική αλλαγή αποτελεί πλέον γεγονός και όλοι μας λίγο ή πολύ βιώνουμε τις επιπτώσεις της. Τα έντονα καιρικά φαινόμενα παρουσιάζονται όλο και συχνότερα, όπως ραγδαίες βροχοπτώσεις και αφύσικα υψηλές θερμοκρασίες.

Η αλλαγή του κλίματος ενέχει σημαντικούς κινδύνους  για την σταθερότητα της ποιότητας στην παγκόσμια παραγωγή κρασιού. Οι αλλαγές αυτές και ιδίως η εμφάνιση ακραίων θερμοκρασιών σε οινοπαραγωγικές περιοχές μπορεί να οδηγήσει στην εμφάνιση θερμικού και υδατικού στρες στα σταφύλια. Οι επιδράσεις στο χρώμα, την οξύτητα και σύνθεση των αρωματικών ουσιών των σταφυλιών είναι σημαντικές.

Επιδράσεις στην φυσιολογία

Για να ελαχιστοποιήσουμε τις επιπτώσεις του θερμικού στρες στην ποιότητα των παραγόμενων οίνων, θα πρέπει να κατανοήσουμε πως επιδρούν οι υψηλές θερμοκρασίες στην φυσιολογία της αμπέλου.

Οι κύριες φυσιολογικές λειτουργίες του φυτού είναι η διαπνοή, η αναπνοή και η φωτοσύνθεση.

Κατά την διαδικασία της διαπνοής, το νερό του εδάφους, που απορροφάται από τις ρίζες, κατευθύνεται προς τους βλαστούς και τελικά προς τα φύλλα. Το μεγαλύτερο μέρος του νερού διαφεύγει προς την ατμόσφαιρα με την μορφή υδρατμών, μέσω μικρών πόρων, των στοματίων, που υπάρχουν στο φύλλο. Η εξάτμιση αυτή του νερού από την επιφάνεια των φύλλων προκαλεί μείωση της θερμοκρασίας τους, και με αυτόν τον τρόπο το φυτό προστατεύεται από την υπερθέρμανση σε συνθήκες υψηλών θερμοκρασιών.

Όταν η θερμοκρασία είναι υψηλή τότε αυξάνεται ο ρυθμός της διαπνοής, ιδιαίτερα όταν η σχετική υγρασία της ατμόσφαιρας είναι χαμηλή.  Όταν παράλληλα η εδαφική υγρασία βρίσκεται σε χαμηλά επίπεδα, τότε το νερό που απορροφάται από τις ρίζες δεν επαρκεί για να αναπληρώσει το νερό που χάνεται από τα φύλλα. Αυτό έχει ως αποτέλεσμα τα φύλλα να χάνουν την σπαργή τους και οι ράγες να μαλακώνουν. Αν αυτές οι συνθήκες διατηρηθούν για κάποιο χρονικό διάστημα τότε παρουσιάζεται ανεπαρκή ωρίμανση των σταφυλιών και υποβάθμιση της ποιότητας τους.

Ένας τρόπος για να ανταπεξέλθουν τα πρέμνα είναι το κλείσιμο των στοματίων τους, ώστε να μειωθούν σημαντικά οι απώλειες ύδατος μέσω της διαπνοής. Όμως, κάποιες ποικιλίες δεν μπορούν να ελέγξουν αποτελεσματικά το άνοιγμα και το κλείσιμο των στοματίων και έτσι δεν μπορούν να περιορίσουν το ρυθμό της διαπνοής. Ως συνέπεια το φυτό υποφέρει υδατικά και  είναι πιο ευαίσθητο στα ηλιοεγκαύματα. Χαρακτηριστικό παράδειγμα αποτελεί η ποικιλία Syrah.

Η φωτοσύνθεση επίσης επηρεάζεται σημαντικά από την θερμοκρασία. Ο βέλτιστος ρυθμός επιτυγχάνεται μεταξύ των θερμοκρασιών 25 και 35 ^οC, ενώ για θερμοκρασίες πάνω από 40^οC μπορεί να μειωθεί ή και να διακοπεί εντελώς. Έτσι, σε υψηλές θερμοκρασίες το αποτέλεσμα είναι η μείωση της φωτοσύνθεσης και συνεπώς η μείωση της παραγωγής σακχάρων, η οποία θα έχει επιπτώσεις στην ομαλή ωρίμανση των σταφυλιών.

Το θερμικό στρες δεν έχει μόνο έμμεσες επιπτώσεις στην ποιότητα των σταφυλιών μέσω της επίδρασης στην συσσώρευση σακχάρων αλλά και άμεσες μέσω των υψηλών θερμοκρασιών  των σταφυλιών. Πολλές από τις χημικές διεργασίες που λαμβάνουν χώρα κατά την ωρίμανση των σταφυλιών επηρεάζονται σημαντικά από την θερμοκρασία. Για παράδειγμα, η ανάπτυξη του χρώματος έχει βέλτιστη θερμοκρασία περίπου τους 25 ^οC και μειώνεται ή παρεμποδίζεται πάνω από αυτήν. Επίσης οι υψηλές θερμοκρασίες μειώνουν και το επίπεδο των οξέων.

Τρόποι αντιμετώπισης

Η εφαρμογή άρδευσης πριν την περίοδο του καύσωνα και η διατήρηση του επιπέδου υγρασίας κατά την περίοδο των υψηλών θερμοκρασιών είναι ο κύριος τρόπος ώστε να περιοριστούν οι ζημιές από το θερμικό στρες. Όταν το επίπεδο της εδαφικής υγρασίας είναι χαμηλό, τα πρέμνα κλείνουν τα στομάτια τους και διακόπτεται η απαγωγή της θερμότητας μέσω της εξάτμισης του νερού, επιτείνοντας τις δυσμενείς επιδράσεις.

Μια άλλη τεχνική που μας βοηθάει να περιορίσουμε τις ζημιές από τις υψηλές θερμοκρασίες είναι η κατάλληλη διαχείριση της βλάστησης.  Η διάταξη του φυλλώματος θα πρέπει να είναι τέτοια ώστε να αποτρέπει την άμεση έκθεση των σταφυλιών στις ηλιακές ακτίνες. Για αυτό τον λόγο επιδιώκουμε την ανάπτυξη της βλάστησης στην αρχή της καλλιεργητικής περιόδου, για να επιτυγχάνεται η σκίαση των σταφυλιών.

Τέλος σημαντική επίδραση  έχει και ο προσανατολισμός των γραμμών φύτευσης. Σε αμπελώνες όπου οι γραμμές φύτευσης έχουν προσανατολισμό ανατολή – δύση, τα πρέμνα λαμβάνουν λιγότερη άμεση ηλιακή ακτινοβολία καθώς ο ήλιος περνά πάνω από το φύλλωμα. Όταν ο προσανατολισμός των γραμμών φύτευσης είναι βορράς – νότος τότε κατά τις ζεστές απογευματινές ώρες, η δυτική πλευρά του φυλλώματος δέχεται άμεση ηλιακή ακτινοβολία. Ο συνδυασμός της επίδρασης της ηλιακής ακτινοβολίας πάνω στις ήδη θερμές ράγες έχει ως αποτέλεσμα μεγαλύτερη ευαισθησία στις υψηλές θερμοκρασίες.

Η ύπαρξη του μύκητα Brettanomyces διαπιστώθηκε για πρώτη φορά στις αγγλικές μπύρες και κατόπιν ερευνών στους οίνους της Βουργουνδίας. Μπορεί να είναι παρών στο αμπέλι, μα συγχρόνως υπάρχουν υποθέσεις διάδοσής του, μέσω της δροσòφιλας. Η παρουσία του είναι γνωστή σε οινοποιεία σε όλο τον κόσμο, αποδεικνύοντας έτσι την προσαρμογή του σε συνθήκες διαφορετικών κλιμάτων. Με την είσοδο του σε ένα οινοποιείο μολύνει τις πορώδεις επιφάνειες, κυρίως το ξύλο βαρελιών, τσιμεντένιες δεξαμενές και αντλίες μεταφοράς του οίνου, ενώ μπορεί να προσβάλλει τους υπό παλαίωση οίνους, ακόμη και στη φιάλη. Γενικά, η παρουσία του διαπιστώνεται, όπου δεν εφαρμόζονται συχνές πρακτικές υγιεινής.

Δεν αποτελεί μύκητα ανταγωνιστικό προς τον Saccharomyces cerevisiae, μια και αναπτύσσει δραστηριότητα μετά την αλκοολική ζύμωση, που παρατείνεται για αρκετούς μήνες ή και χρόνια. Τούτο αποδεικνύει ότι μεγαλύτερο κίνδυνο προσβολής διατρέχουν οι «μεγάλοι» οίνοι παλαίωσης. Από το μεταβολισμό του, με μια συγκεκριμένη διπλή ενζυματική δραστηριότητα πάνω στα υδροξυκινναμωμικα οξέα (κουμαρικò και φερουλικò οξύ), παράγονται κατά κύριο λόγο πτητικές φαινόλες (4-βινυλ-φαινòλη, 4-βινυλ-γουαιακòλη, 4-αιθυλ-φαινòλη, 4-αιθυλ-γουαιακòλη). Αυτές οδηγούν στην απώλεια του φρουτώδους χαρακτήρα, προσδίδοντας στους ερυθρούς οίνους νότες δέρματος, γαρύφαλλου, βερνικιού, βρεγμένου μαλλιού / χαρτιού, στάβλου, νότες φαρμακευτικές. Αυτές οι δυσάρεστες οσμές που ορίζονται ως «χαρακτήρας Brett» δεν αποτελούν κίνδυνο για την υγεία του καταναλωτή, μονάχα ποιοτική υποβάθμιση του προϊόντος.

Για την καταπολέμηση του Brettanomyces, όταν η παρουσία του είναι διακριτική, μπορεί να πραγματοποιηθεί ανάμειξη του οίνου με άλλο, υγιή και διαύγαση. Σε εκτεταμένες προσβολές, η χρήση απορροφητικού άνθρακα και πρωτεϊνικών κολλών δεν καταφέρνουν να μειώσουν μεγάλες ποσότητες πτητικών φαινολών, η χρήση αντίστροφης ώσμωσης δεν είναι επιλεκτική σε πτητικές ουσίες και το νανοφιλτράρισμα είναι πρακτική μή επιτρεπτή στην Ε.Ε. Ο καλύτερος τρόπος αποφυγής της μόλυνσης είναι η πρόληψη, με τακτικό καθάρισμα των βαρελιών πραγματοποιώντας κύκλους πλυσίματός τους με νερό κρύο και ζεστό, ατμό και κάψιμο θείου για αποτελεσματική αποστείρωση. Μερικοί επίσης χρησιμοποιούν το όζον με αρκετά καλά αποτελέσματα. Απομένει κατά συνέπεια να γίνει αποδεκτό το γεγονός ότι ο φαινολικός χαρακτήρας ορισμένων οίνων δεν είναι φυσικό αποτέλεσμα ενός terroir, αλλά απόρροια μόλυνσης, τις περισσότερες φορές οφειλόμενη στην πολυετή χρήση, όχι καλά διατηρημένων δρύινων βαρελιών.

I lieviti del genere Brettanomyces sono conosciuti principalmente dai lavori fatti sui mosti delle birre inglesi ed in seguito nei vini della Borgogna. Può essere presente nel vigneto, ma non si conosce il suo mezzo di propagazione, anche se si pensa che venga trasmesso da insetti, quali la Drosophila melanogaster. Nella maggior parte dei casi la presenza di Brettanomyces è stata rilevata in cantine di tutto il mondo, dimostrando che si adatta a tutte le condizioni e a tutti i climi. Una volta giunto in cantina, questo microrganismo può colonizzare tutti i materiali porosi, soprattutto il legno e le vasche in cemento mal vetrificate. Inoltre, la sua presenza è stata riscontrata sui depositi organici nelle pompe utilizzate per il trasferimento dei mosti. In generale lo sviluppo di Brettanomyces si osserva dove si adottano scarse pratiche di igiene della cantina.

Questo lievito é in grado di svilupparsi nel vino in corso di affinamento o in bottiglia e dal suo metabolismo, grazie alla degradazione degli acidi idrossicinnamici, produce composti di odore sgradevole definiti fenoli volatili e più specificatamente 4-etil-fenolo e 4-etil-guaiacolo. Questi composti sono riconducibili ai descrittori di panno bagnato, urina di topo, stalla, medicinale, lana bagnata, cuoio, garofano e vernice. Lo sviluppo di questi aromi indesiderati viene definita “nota Brett”.

Lo sviluppo dei fenoli volatili nei vini è dovuto ad una doppia attività enzimatica che ha come substrati iniziali gli acidi idrossicinnamici, già presenti nelle uve di partenza e si ritrovano nel vino (l’acido p-cumarico e l’acido ferulico). Brettanomyces è un lievito con scarsa attitudine fermentativa, infatti non compete con Saccharomyces cerevisiae e il suo sviluppo avviene solo dopo la fine della fermentazione. Anche se questi lieviti sono stati isolati da mosti in fermentazione, la loro presenza sembra associata ai vini in corso di affinamento. Inoltre, avendo un metabolismo molto lento, può continuare a svolgere la sua attività anche dopo parecchi mesi o anni. Questo indica che i vini che corrono più pericoli sono quelli di pregio, che subiscono lunghi periodi di affinamento e di conservazione soprattutto in legno.

La comparsa dei fenoli volatili nei vini porta alla perdita degli aromi floreali, però non costituiscono un pericolo per il consumatore, ma solo un’alterazione qualitativa.

Se l’alterazione sviluppata da Brettanomyces è lieve, è possibile mascherare l’effetto negativo con dei tagli con altri vini e chiarifiche. Se, invece, l’alterazione sviluppata si presenta molto marcata gli interventi curativi hanno scarsa efficacia, infatti ad oggi non esistono coadiuvanti enologici consentiti dalla legislazione in grado di rimuovere in maniera selettiva i fenoli volatili prodotti dal microrganismo. Coadiuvanti come i carboni adsorbenti e l’impiego di trattamenti di chiarifica con colle proteiche (gelatina, albumine, proteine vegetali, colle di pesce) non riescono a rimuovere percentuali elevate di etilfenoli. L’applicazione dell’osmosi inversa sul vino ha dato ottimi risultati per l’asportazione degli etilfenoli, tuttavia risulta scarsamente selettiva nei confronti di numerose sostanze volatili. Con la nanofiltrazione si ottengono dei buoni risultati, però questa pratica non è ammessa nei paesi Europei.

La miglior arma per combattere Brettanomyces è la prevenzione nei confronti dell’inquinamento microbiologico. Le barrique devono essere lavate o con cicli di acqua calda e acqua fredda o con insuflazione diretta di vapore per ottenere una buona sanificazione e successivamente trattate con dischetti di zolfo che bruciando, in condizioni di chiusura ermetica, sterilizzano le doghe. Alcuni fanno anche uso dell’ozone con dei risultati soddisfacenti. Concludendo, il carattere fenolico presente in alcuni vini non è una conseguenza naturale del terroir,ma appare di essere il risultato dell’uso dei barrique mal preservati ed utillizzati per parecchi anni.

Απόσπασμα από την παρουσίαση : «Μια προσέγγιση στην αντίληψη των καταναλωτών για τον οίνο»

Μάιος 2010

Την Δεκαετία του 70’ και του 80’ η εταιρεία Pepsi πραγματοποίησε μια διαφημιστική καμπάνια, την “Pepsi Challenge” οπού καταναλώτες δοκίμαζαν τυφλά Pepsi και Coke. Κατά την διάρκεια των δοκιμασιών η πλειονότητα των καταναλωτών προτιμούσαν την Pepsi, ωστόσο η προτίμηση τους αυτή δεν αποτυπωνόταν και στις πωλήσεις της Pepsi.

Με αφορμή το παραπάνω γεγονός , ο Dr Read Montague το 2004 διεξήξαγε ένα πολύ ενδιαφέρον πείραμα. Επανέλαβε το “ Pepsi Challenge” παρακαλουθώντας, αυτή την φορα, την εγκεφαλική δραστηριότητα των εθελοντών που συμμετείχαν στο πείραμα, χρησιμοποιώντας την τεχνολογία της functional MRΙ.

Για την κατανόηση της αντίφασης μεταξύ της ευχαρίστησης και της αγοραστικής προτίμησης, ο Δρ. Montague έκανε δυο σειρές δοκιμών. Αρχικά, έδωσε στους εθελοντές να δοκιμάσουν «τυφλά» Pepsi & Coke και διαπιστωσε πως η Pepsi δημιουργούσε πολύ μεγαλύτερο ερέθισμα στην περιοχή του εγκεφάλου που σχετίζεται με την διαδικασία της επιβράβευσης – ευχαρίστησης.

Όταν όμως ο Δρ. Montague επανέλαβε το πείραμα γνωστοποιώντας στους εθελόντες τι πίνουν , παραδόξως πλέον οι περισσότεροι προτίμησαν την Coke. Επιπλέον, η εγκεφαλική δραστηριότητα άλλαξε διεγείροντας την περιοχή του εγκεφάλου που συνδέεται με την σκέψη και την κρίση. Οι εθέλοντες ουσιαστικά διαμόρφωναν την προτίμηση τους όχι ανάλογα με την ευχαρίστηση – επιβράβευση αλλά με την αντίληψη που είχαν για το προϊόν “Brand Image” .

Τα αποτελέσματα συνδέονται άμεσα με την διαδικασία την δοκιμής οίνων. Όταν δεν δοκιμάζουμε τυφλά, η κρίση μας είναι πιθανόν να διαμορφωθεί από την προηγούμενη γνώση και αντίληψη για το κρασί που δοκιμάζουμε, αν και όπως δηλώνει Δρ. Montague η παρουσία αλκόολ μπορεί να διαφοροποιήσει τα πραγματα.

Ένα ακόμα πείραμα που πραγματοποιήθηκε με την μέθοδο της f -MRI είχε στόχο να διακρίνει τον τρόπο που καταναλώνουν το κράσι, οι οινικοί επαγγελμάτιες (π.χ. Sommelier) και οι απλοί καταναλώτες. Τα αποτελέσματα ήταν εντυπωσιακά κάθως στους απλούς καταναλώτες ενεργοποιούταν η περιοχή που συνδέεται με την απόλαυση ενώ στην περίπτωση των sommelier η περιοχή της αντίληψης.

Μήπως λοιπόν πρέπει να παραμερίσουμε τις ατέλειωτες «άχρηστες»πληροφορίες, να απομυθοποιήσουμε το οίνο και να απολαύσουμε το κράσι σαν απλοί «κατανάλωτες», ως μέρος ενός γεύματος με φίλους, απλών καθημέρινων ή ακόμα και ιδιαίτερων – μοναδικών στιγμών;

When Nico Manessis and I first talked about this article, I had it all laid out in my mind. I was to unite the two loves of my life, wine and fashion (my little lovie Urania is beyond compare), and talk about parallel lives, about fashion and wine as powerful partners in contemporary lifestyles and expressions of conspicuous consumption.

However, the economic crisis has since forced us to tighten our belts even more and I felt compelled to factor this into the equation. What are our ‘Responses to the Recession’? How do companies cope in the current economic crisis? Are tight-spending consumers now in charge or can companies still drive buying behaviour? Will the market polarise into a world of ultra-luxury products for the “haves” and super-inexpensive ones for the “have-nots”? How can we attempt to answer these questions, when entire economies collapse around us like dominoes?

Let’s begin by taking a brief look at the consumer and their buying behaviour to survive the crunch. An ING survey this year, which interviewed 11,000 people in nine countries, found that people have embraced a “cocooning” culture created by the financial crisis. We have become domestic hedonists, spending more time at home as the crisis bites.

Another study, conducted by psychologists at Cornell University, found that ‘experiences’ are more rewarding than ‘things’. According to the study, experiences are so effective at making us happy because we truly ‘own’ them. They become integrated into our characters and help shape our personalities. Andrea Pfeffer, Director at the Sales and PR agency Robinson Pfeffer, agrees: “The new luxury is about experience,” she suggests. “Ultimately, the shopper wants to feel personally connected to the brand.”

So one new trend is experience branding and experience retailing. Another one – actually linked to the previous one – is to buy things that are painstakingly hand-built instead of efficiently mass-produced. Architect and writer Steve Mouzon wrote near the beginning of this meltdown: “So I believe that the meltdown will begin to cause people to think long-term again, and to begin to value enduring things.”

In this vein, Tokyo-based designer Junya Tashiro describes his creations as “clothes that will mature,” aging like a fine wine, but also becoming more comfortable like an old sofa or favorite sweater. “The more you wear and wash your clothes, the more they become familiar to you, and the more you feel comfortable in them,” Tashiro explains. “If apparel has a nice feel to it to begin with, after 5 years, or 10 years, you will think ‘this is better now than when I bought it.’ I want to make apparel based on the idea that good clothing doesn’t get old, but matures.”

Choosing organic, believing in sustainable development, adopting a (frugal) green living stance and embracing the reduce/reuse/recycle motto is the way a lot of consumers (from various income groups) and companies alike have chosen to cope with the crisis.

Some companies choose to maintain a sense of exclusivity, by targeting specialised distribution channels; these are faring well under the current economic climate. Companies are also altering their public perception and developing a dialogue with customers through social media websites, such as Facebook, YouTube and Twitter. Brands are now in a position where failure to nurture ‘genuine’ relationships with their customers may result in decreased sales, negative brand association and, ultimately, a failed enterprise. Trend analyst Dion Chang signaled the start of an “empathetic economy”, in which “value systems changed drastically” and companies, communities and families collaborated to survive. Whether we’re talking about wine, fashion or any other kind of business.

To end this brief foray into consumer behaviour and marketing strategies of the economic crisis, in relation to wine and fashion, on a pleasant note, I will introduce you to some ‘Evochia’. Evochia is the ancient Greek word for the mirth and conviviality present at a symposium. Evochia is also an organic food shop near my house, where I met Dimitris Theocharidis. The shop belongs to his family and, after he’d completed his B.A (Hons) at the London College of Fashion, I met him there, designing his clothes and selling wine and calendula baby creams.

Then Dimitris returned to London and teamed up with fellow graduate Jenny Holmes to create JENA.THEO. They then went on to win the highly coveted Fashion Fringe at Covent Garden 2009, chaired by Donatella Versace, with a “recession-proof” collection inspired by womens’ sexual revolution movements, from ancient Crete all the way through to the ‘60s.

What is their next collection going to be? “Maybe we can call it Times of Crisis”, they say. “We wish to celebrate the century that has just gone. We have looked at times of crisis through the 20th century from the French Resistance, the depression of the 30s through to the recession in the 90s.” We wish them all the best.

There are glowing reports, on Alsace and Bordeaux. In Greece, it was a difficult vintage. Technicians are still scratching their heads. With no doubt, this year has thrown up formidable challenges in vineyard management. There were fewer regional patterns of uniformity. Suddenly, the already fragmented vineyard has become one of baffling changes. During my month-long autumn tour, a common thread emerged: ‘Sudden (weather) changes.’ In many ways, a strange year, with unusual weather upheaval. More than in any previous year, there was a larger period of cloud cover, which helped the aromatic varieties. North-western Greece was mildew-ridden, eventually ending with rotten grapes. Yet, for some pockets, especially on islands specialising in white wines, straight-talking producers said ‘unusual but good’. Broadly speaking, the year championed the most diligent farmers. Greediness, in red grapes especially, was punished. Those risk-takers triumphed who waited long enough to get ripe pips and the pH’s in ‘windows’ where it made sense to pick.

Epirus & Macedonia

Heavy spring and unusual early-summer rains caught most growers in Amyndeon, Goumenissa, and Naoussa unprepared. Mildew was omnipresent. One farmer I visited was ‘praying’ for a mini heat wave. It never materialised. In hotter and usually dry Drama, it is the year of freshness, lacking the usual heat imprint. One of several pleasant surprises.

Sterea Ellada

The weeklong fires in north-eastern Athens suburbs were an ecological disaster. Adjacent vineyards were affected with smoke taint. Ironically, the vineyards not close to these ravaging fires benefited from the early September rains. By the time harvest begun around September 10, the old-vine Savatiano came up with good, if not great, wines. Even at a usefully low 12.3% ABV, they are brimming with typicity. Further north, in Boeotia and onto the nearby island of Evia, the imported grapes are quite good. There is bright fruit and all-around freshness. Syrah was a near star.

Peloponnesus

The northern shoreline and Patra was average and lower. The usually dependable high-altitude Roditis of Aigialia was not helped by the higher yields. Nemea had not faced such early rains since the 2002 wash-out. Storms broke out on September 6. The weather held for four days, and the heavens opened. The ugly face of politics, in the broader sense, appeared with a promise of subsidies. Some things never change. Therefore, only 2,000 tonnes of healthy grapes were harvested from the estimated 18,000 tonnes. Old bush vines, of which there are few, made little but decent wine. All high-yield vineyards are at best weak to poor. ‘Anaemic’ was one farmer’s succinct comment. Mantinia: The landlocked plateau right in the middle of the grape garden of Greece. Summer rains and cooler temperatures helped the blanc de gris Moschofilero maintain its aromatic profile and balance. For the most part there are good wines. The best-farmed sites excelled.

Ionian Islands

Cephalonia: The island which challenges Santorini for one-of-a-kind, bone-dry wine, is Cephalonian Robola. Winter and perfectly timed spring rainfall increased from an average (2002-2008) of annual participation of 600-800 ml. to 1,250 ml. For the time being, it appears that normality has returned. Southern-facing slopes retained moisture throughout summer. June showers affected the valley of Saint Gerassimos at 600 m. but not the southern-facing high slopes which reach up to 800 m. The vines looked healthy green with no external signs (yellowing leaf) of water stress. Grapes were harvested ten days later than in 2008. Ripening evenly, bringing out super fruit and, early on, their minerality. Acidities are amongst the highest ever. An unqualified success, with crisp, minerally wines that capture the limestone-dominated terroir.

Aegean Islands

Samos: The source of great fortified (and a little unfortified) dessert Muscat. Winter and early summer showers and the absence of heat-waves have propelled it amongst the top-performing island vineyards. Floral and zesty aromas. Vibrancy, in all styles. Santorini, which lies 35N, never ceases to amaze me. This far south and with the desiccating winds one does not usually mention malic acid. Yet, spring and summer was cool enough for 1.5 gr./l. of malic acid to be present at harvest time. As a veteran put it: ‘In twenty harvests I have never encountered malic acid’. Grape picking commenced the first week of August and then it turned… cold! Conscientious winemakers stopped. Nocturnal temperatures dropped, maturity inched at snail’s pace forward. Harvest recommenced August 16th. First impressions? Atypical Santorinis. A notch lower in alcohol levels, juxtaposed with terrific, new to me on this island, grapefruit-citrus aromas that carry through on the palate. Rhodes: The south-eastern Aegean island and the template for Athiri. In off vintages this island usually comes up top. Not this time. Mostly average. More complex with good body wherever the grapes matured in the earlier part of the harvest. As our friends in America say, ‘go figure’. Crete: The white wines from central Crete are exceptional, highlighting the floral spicy character of the Vilana grape. Wines of character and lift. The reds are a mixed bag: Only the best-managed vineyards produced great fruit. Wines have soft tannins. Heavy rains on September 11-12 created havoc on the latter-harvested reds.
Time may prove me wrong. I will stick my neck out on this. During my 16-year beat, the near- clockwork regular, variations on a theme, across-the-board quality of Greek harvests (with the odd washout as in 2002) has been confined to statistical records. Lack of rainfall, when needed, extended heat waves, higher nocturnal temperatures and, above all, ‘sudden changes’ have brought new issues and challenges to this eastern Mediterranean vineyard. My point? Vines have genes that have adapted to local conditions. With the climatic parameters now ‘stretched’, we have sailed into uncharted territory. So far, the only benefit from all of these weather vagaries is communication. The increased dialogue between farmers, agronomists, oenologists and nurseries is nothing short of fascinating. There is plenty to think about.