Rapsani Dougos
‘Sense of place’ is an overused cliché. Yet, this Rapsani, from the tiny artisan Dougos vineyards and winery is SOP personified. From a clutch of recently tasted Xinomavro-based blends, this wine had such a clear geographic imprint. It filled me with joy and helped in nailing another little flag in the terroir wine map I have for years been deciphering. Louisa and Thanos Dougos, the energetic sister-and-brother team, are making their mark with yet another characterful red wine. Their white wines are idiosyncratic but that is another altogether different story. It is this Rapsani of which I urge you to get hold of a few bottles to cellar for several years. They will reward you. It is a blend of Kapsala and Tourtoura vineyards. These north-east facing plateaus (550-650 m.), with commanding views over the Thermaikos Gulf, are nestled on the foothills of Mount Olympus. Having recently re-visited these two name places, it reminded me of what exciting wines can be made in the right hands in this region, once prominent and historic for its wines. They may not have had oenologist degrees back in the 19th century. Yet, empirically they fully understood how nature ‘helped’ make good wine if the vineyards were located off the hotter and heavier valley-floor soils and on well-drained, cooler hillsides. If you plan to plant a vineyard then head for the local café, where the old boys will be more than willing to show you the – now mostly abandoned – better sites.
Organic. 60% Xinomavro, 30% Krasato, 10% Stavroto. Flattering nose of tar, warm-fruited, earthy, oriental spice. It keeps evolving to a Pinot Noir-like ‘sweetness’. Firm, though ripe, tannic backbone. Umami-like meatiness. Old vine concentration. Savoury finish brimming with mountain freshness. Carafing recommended. Best 2011 -2017.
Score: 17.5/20
For more details please visit: www.dougos.gr
24.02.2010
2007
Syrah Ktima Pavlidis
This relative newcomer has several aces up its sleeve. It was built on – so to speak – solid foundations in the vineyard. Nothing has been spared in winemaking kit. With the passing of every new vintage, Christophoros Pavlidis, who made his fortune in marble, granite and construction, seems en route to succeed in his lofty ambitions to join the upper echelon of leading estates. No one can underestimate the importance of the human factor in any project. The old adage ‘you are only as good as your team’ could not be more appropriate for the capable hands of Nikos Karatzas. He is far more mature than his 32 years of age. Member of the new generation of technicians who are so in tune with their vineyards. Recently, I spent time with him. Ktima Pavlidis is lucky to have him. Watch out for the video to be posted with highlights from my visit in the company of this all-round über-talented chemist-oenologist. There are other impressive wines in this going places estate: The 2009 Assyrtiko is a very convincing varietal, introducing yet another facet of this great grape. Yet, it was the 2007 Syrah that tipped the scales for me. There are several pleasant enough Greek Syrahs. Few do stand out and are carving a great future. This varietal from western Drama is one of them.
Dark. Perfumed purity. Generous backbone, oozing minerality. Refined tannins. Lush and vivid. Think of northern Rhone with Greek gutsiness. Best 2010-2016.
Score: 17/20
For more details, please visit: www.ktima-pavlidis.gr
11.02.2010
Blink Brut Sparlking Wine Blink Wines
I have mentioned, in these pages, the unrealised opportunity lying untapped in the sparkling wine category. Finally, Blink is with us. Not only does it carve a niche, but it brings back a fun element, which, frankly, has been absent far too long in Greek wine.
Behind this playfully packaged and named sparkler is Fanny, the 24-year-old and half-French – nobody’s perfect – daughter of veteran oenologist Pavlos Arghyropoulos. Fanny combines her mother’s charm and father’s savvy. So far so good. It actually gets better. The approach of sourcing is an inspired choice. The grapes are organically-farmed Muscat of Alexandria. They are sourced from the northern-Aegean volcanic island of Lemnos, which is more famous for its sweet versions of this popular grape. I enjoyed this newcomer in early December at a melancholic empty summer resort near Thessaloniki. The dusk light dwindled as we were squinting to catch the cormorants dipping about by a mussel farm. This on a backdrop of shades of winter grey melting into the purple rays of the northern Aegean sunset. Occasionally, the hurly-burly life of a wine writer does have its moments! Wine writers know how bad Muscat can be. Vulgar off-putting aromas, misplaced, disjointed flavours are some of the ‘horrors’ we are occasionally exposed to. Well, there is nothing of the sort here. It is as bright as the spring light over the sandy beaches on this off-the-beaten-track island. Residual sugar is on the cusp of the limit of Brut, that is to say 15 g./litre. It is in no way cloying or tiring, thanks to a great fruit/acid balance. It is made with the cuve-close (closed tank) method. As of spring 2010, Blink will also be available in 75-cl. bottles.
Medium- to small-sized mousse. Yellow-golden. Clean floral aroma. Shows varietal-true, enticing lemon flavours. A lift of racy acidity on the juicy finish. Full of personality. On the serious side of fun. Best appreciated soon.
Score: 15.5/20
E-mail: info@blinkwines.com
27.01.2010