Aegean Islands | Greek Wine World

2000
Santorini Canava Argyrou

All upcoming regions have seminal tastings. Some are better publicised, others less so. In the not too distant 2000, at a press tasting in London organised by Steve Daniel, then Buying and Marketing director at Oddbins and now at Novum, he placed “blind”, last in a line-up of Chardonnay tasting, a ringer. “Chablis on steroids” was one explicit comment. The wine? A 1999 oak-fermented Santorini Argyros.
On a recent stay on the island of Thera, better known internationally by its medieval Latin name, Santorini, I tasted several older vintages, with Mattheos Argyros, the fourth generation of this top-notch address. We looked at 2006, 2000, and 1997. The 2006 was a mere baby, and the 1997 was reductive. It was the 2000 that showed best. It struck me as the closest this piece of volcanic rock in the southern Aegean will ever be stylistically to Puligny Montrachet, with a hugely surprising nod to the Middle Mosel. Over an hour or so, I savoured it. It just got better. Holding up beautifully to the last drop. There was some sea urchin lurking in my fluffy risotto. This 2000 Santorini held its own against the onslaught of the rich in iodine sea urchin froth, even rising to the crisp and sweet marathoriza (finnochio).
Beyond the sheer pleasure of sharing this rarity with friends, at Perivoli restaurant, the telling factor of this hypothetical cross, where Burgundy meets the thoroughbred purity of Santorini, was that it was tank fermented. No oak, but time in bottle, in a humid cool cellar at the Argyros estate. Cork was in great shape too. The very same wine, a blend of Episkopi and Pyrgos vineyards, continues today under the recently new label: 2009 Assyrtiko Santorini Argyros.
Initially shy. Slowly opening up to a subtle hazelnut aroma. Whiff of the saline minerality and bracing acidity with which these wines are so blessed. Revisiting the glass: petrol and honey on the ever expanding aromatic complexity which follows through on a very long, textured palate. Supple, classy minerality, wrapped in a “gentler”, bone-dry, linear finish. All fronts in complete unison. Best 2010-2014?
Score: 19/20
For more information please visit: www.estate-argyros.com
Greece distribution: www.genkacomm.gr
USA: www.winebow.com

7.07.2010

2009
Sigalas Santorini

20.00 hours. King Ra was just about to disappear into the pink-grey of the Aegean. I glanced over my shoulder and saw a paraglider hovering majestically over the Caldera. With the thermal bouncing off the volcanic rock, he occasionally went into in a holding pattern resembling number 8. This Caldera sighting of the bird-man swooping over the whitewashed domes and orange-purple sky was new to me. Improvisation struck, a plan was hatched. To drive towards this modern-day Icarus and follow him to his landing spot. Hopefully, to get a comment on what it is like flying off the Caldera, to ask him about his bird’s-eye view take on the vineyards. Who knows? He may even appreciate wine. Then the plan went terribly wrong: The cell-phone went off with news of change of address for our supper rendezvous. By the time I was back on track, the bird-man had flown overland to Faros (Akrotiri), where he became a hazy blur before I eventually lost sight of him. If I am to bag the bird-man, I will have to check wind forecasts on sailing websites.

This Caldera scene was still vivid when in the kitchen of our beach-front taverna we had gone through the Greek ritual of selecting ‘’our victims’’. I was now faced with two large glass-door refrigerators. In them, a varied selection of the island’s bone-dry whites and an assortment of other Greek wines. I pointed the 2009 Sigalas to the bearded taverna owner, whose elongated craggy looks remind me of a French actor whose name has shamelessly joined my ever-growing pantheon of “anonymous” heroes.

The 2008 Santorini vintage was good. As were the 2005 and the 2007, though not a match for the exceptional 2006. Perhaps the 2009 will match it, or surpass the 2006. By summer 2011 a clear picture will emerge of how it stacks up. (See Articles: The 2009 Vintage Report). Evenings are not the best time for review. Mornings are far more suited to deconstructing a wine. Yet, despite the day’s fatigue and fast-dropping adrenalin, this 2009 Sigalas Santorini shone like a beacon. It is still going through the motions, heading for its starting point. From the very first sip, it was lively and complete, if a little subdued. Cellar this wine. It will reward your patience. Look at it periodically and (re)-discover a great terroir of the Greek vineyard.

Platinum and green tints. Floral, reminiscent of vines flowering. Seamlessly flows on into aromas of flint and green tea. Fireworks of crisp minerality kicking in with a lemony, stony, layered palate. Very long, refined, classy aftertaste. A saline iodine postscriptum. In “reading” the empty glass, a lesson in expression(s) of wine minerality unfolds. Best as of 2011-2018.

Score: 18.5/20

For more details please visit: www.sigalas-wine.com

Belgium: www.pasqualinno.be

China: www.asianbeveragecompany.com

USA: www.diamondwineimporters.com

www.frederickwildman.com

15.06.2010

2009
Aidani Estate Argyros

Assyrtiko-based Santorini, is a complex, full-throttle, mineralic vin de terroir. One thing it is not is an aperitif wine. Yet, in the numerous white grapes found in the vineyard, the last of the 3 As (Athiri, Assyrtiko and Aidani) is the most aromatic. Very little of it is grown on the island, it is highly prized, especially sought to brighten up the aromatic profile of the expensive, sweet, sun-dried Vinsanto. Aidani commands Euro 1.45 per kg. versus Assyrtiko’s Euro 1.05 kg. (prices for the 2009 vintage). Approaching harvest, there is much café-lobbying and vivid mobile-phone bidding by the now 13 wineries on this one-of-a-kind, historic island vineyard.

The island’s Canava with the oldest and finest Vinsanto reserves is the third-generation and fourth-generation father Yannis and son Mattheos Argyros. 10 years ago, they planted 1.2 hectares of Aidani in Episkopi Gonias, in the time-honoured and unique to this island basket-shaped pruning. Most of their Aidani ends up in the class-leading Vinsanto. As of 2005, a limited quantity is bottled as a varietal. As chronicled in my 2009 vintage report (see under Articles), the unusually cooler summer and harvest conditions played handsomely into enhancing the aromatic subtleties of this Cycladic-island rarity. Yannis Argyros adds, “We were not looking to add another label (there are 10) but wanted to show this as a varietal. To date, the 2009 is the most complete vintage.” Another factor for suggesting this wine as a sipping wine is the lower alcohol of 12.5% ABV, approximately one degree less than Assyrtiko-based wines. It is longer lived than the fragile Athiri (see my recent posting on the exceptional Santo Wines example). At this level, this Aidani will keep its vibrancy for up to two years.

Pale yellow-green tints. Fragrant. Lemon blossom with a smokey mineral background. Textured. Richly flavoured. Crisp bone-dry bracing pyritic finish. A great balancing act, combining the floral aromatics and the unmistakable pronounced terroir. Classy and stylish. A different facet of this never a dull terroir.

Score: 17.5/20

For more details please visit www.estate-argyros.com

20.04.2010

Wine geography