Greek Wine World » Aegean Islands

Santorini Cuvee No. 15 Hatzidakis

admin — Wed, 01 Sep 2010 08:19:55 +0000

Market forces demand custom-made wines. This applies even to niche players like Greece. The Hatzidakis Cuvee No. 15 was made for the French market. Paris-based importer Yiorgos Ioannidis, who is tireless in his endeavours to promote hand-crafted wines, ended up sharing some of it with a France-based Japanese sourcing agent. The usually reticent Japanese were smitten by this wine, as well as by the Ghi ke Uranos Naoussa 2007, also reviewed in these pages. “ What a sense of placeness” was the terse, Far-East utterance of approval.

Haridimos Hatzidakis has been through a rough patch. He is fighting his way back. He spent time this past spring talking up this and his other wines with Parisian clients who were thrilled to meet this shy Cretan. He was on good form when I recently saw him on the island. This off-the-beaten-path Santorini was one of the few bottles to take with me, as I wanted to taste it from afar. It ended up in an impromptu tasting of various Greek wines at 1600 m. altitude in the Swiss Alps. Mountain biking and long walks had sharpened the senses.

The 2009 Hatzidakis wines were chiefly made by Apostolos Thimiopoulos, whose above-mentioned Naoussa rocked the sleepy appellation, resting on her past glories. He exceptionally, and as a one-off, helped out a colleague in need. Nice. For the 2010 vintage Helias Roussakis(ex Sigalas) has joined Haridimos Hatzidakis.

Cuvee No. 15 is a blend of grapes from three different organically farmed vineyards. Thimiopoulos adds, “It was a gamble. Wild yeast ferment and minimum intervention. It was left in a corner; it turned out beautifully’’. There was no sulphur added. The 2009 harvest conditions were exceptional. The cooler nights preserved the crunchy freshness of the near-perfect grapes. You are getting ahead of me. This micro–cuvee, is very much in orange wine category. It makes sense, in such a top-notch vintage, to go for it in this style, currently undergoing revival, of esoteric wines with a cult following.

Hazy, golden-copper orange. Starts off a little dull. After aerating, flint stone and acacia honey. Raw quince? Tannic core, honeycomb. Punchy minerality picks up from the mid palate. Compact, bone-dry, mineral, very , very long, persistent finish. Label states 14.5% (tastes like 15.5%ABV). A more modern version of 1990’s Nyhteri from Vourvoulos. The sheer volume and pronounced lively acidity, with a savoury umami parting shot, are memorable. It will continue to evolve, eventually resembling Jura vin jaune. Best 2010-2015.

Score: 18/20

France agent email: oenos.fpl@free.fr

Santorini Canava Argyrou

admin — Wed, 07 Jul 2010 14:03:04 +0000

All upcoming regions have seminal tastings. Some are better publicised, others less so. In the not too distant 2000, at a press tasting in London organised by Steve Daniel, then Buying and Marketing director at Oddbins and now at Novum, he placed “blind”, last in a line-up of Chardonnay tasting, a ringer. “Chablis on steroids” was one explicit comment. The wine? A 1999 oak-fermented Santorini Argyros.
On a recent stay on the island of Thera, better known internationally by its medieval Latin name, Santorini, I tasted several older vintages, with Mattheos Argyros, the fourth generation of this top-notch address. We looked at 2006, 2000, and 1997. The 2006 was a mere baby, and the 1997 was reductive. It was the 2000 that showed best. It struck me as the closest this piece of volcanic rock in the southern Aegean will ever be stylistically to Puligny Montrachet, with a hugely surprising nod to the Middle Mosel. Over an hour or so, I savoured it. It just got better. Holding up beautifully to the last drop. There was some sea urchin lurking in my fluffy risotto. This 2000 Santorini held its own against the onslaught of the rich in iodine sea urchin froth, even rising to the crisp and sweet marathoriza (finnochio).
Beyond the sheer pleasure of sharing this rarity with friends, at Perivoli restaurant, the telling factor of this hypothetical cross, where Burgundy meets the thoroughbred purity of Santorini, was that it was tank fermented. No oak, but time in bottle, in a humid cool cellar at the Argyros estate. Cork was in great shape too. The very same wine, a blend of Episkopi and Pyrgos vineyards, continues today under the recently new label: 2009 Assyrtiko Santorini Argyros.
Initially shy. Slowly opening up to a subtle hazelnut aroma. Whiff of the saline minerality and bracing acidity with which these wines are so blessed. Revisiting the glass: petrol and honey on the ever expanding aromatic complexity which follows through on a very long, textured palate. Supple, classy minerality, wrapped in a “gentler”, bone-dry, linear finish. All fronts in complete unison. Best 2010-2014?
Score: 19/20
For more information please visit: www.estate-argyros.com
Greece distribution: www.genkacomm.gr
USA: www.winebow.com

Sigalas Santorini

admin — Tue, 15 Jun 2010 11:50:32 +0000

20.00 hours. King Ra was just about to disappear into the pink-grey of the Aegean. I glanced over my shoulder and saw a paraglider hovering majestically over the Caldera. With the thermal bouncing off the volcanic rock, he occasionally went into in a holding pattern resembling number 8. This Caldera sighting of the bird-man swooping over the whitewashed domes and orange-purple sky was new to me. Improvisation struck, a plan was hatched. To drive towards this modern-day Icarus and follow him to his landing spot. Hopefully, to get a comment on what it is like flying off the Caldera, to ask him about his bird’s-eye view take on the vineyards. Who knows? He may even appreciate wine. Then the plan went terribly wrong: The cell-phone went off with news of change of address for our supper rendezvous. By the time I was back on track, the bird-man had flown overland to Faros (Akrotiri), where he became a hazy blur before I eventually lost sight of him. If I am to bag the bird-man, I will have to check wind forecasts on sailing websites.

This Caldera scene was still vivid when in the kitchen of our beach-front taverna we had gone through the Greek ritual of selecting ‘’our victims’’. I was now faced with two large glass-door refrigerators. In them, a varied selection of the island’s bone-dry whites and an assortment of other Greek wines. I pointed the 2009 Sigalas to the bearded taverna owner, whose elongated craggy looks remind me of a French actor whose name has shamelessly joined my ever-growing pantheon of “anonymous” heroes.

The 2008 Santorini vintage was good. As were the 2005 and the 2007, though not a match for the exceptional 2006. Perhaps the 2009 will match it, or surpass the 2006. By summer 2011 a clear picture will emerge of how it stacks up. (See Articles: The 2009 Vintage Report). Evenings are not the best time for review. Mornings are far more suited to deconstructing a wine. Yet, despite the day’s fatigue and fast-dropping adrenalin, this 2009 Sigalas Santorini shone like a beacon. It is still going through the motions, heading for its starting point. From the very first sip, it was lively and complete, if a little subdued. Cellar this wine. It will reward your patience. Look at it periodically and (re)-discover a great terroir of the Greek vineyard.

Platinum and green tints. Floral, reminiscent of vines flowering. Seamlessly flows on into aromas of flint and green tea. Fireworks of crisp minerality kicking in with a lemony, stony, layered palate. Very long, refined, classy aftertaste. A saline iodine postscriptum. In “reading” the empty glass, a lesson in expression(s) of wine minerality unfolds. Best as of 2011-2018.

Score: 18.5/20

For more details please visit: www.sigalas-wine.com

Belgium: www.pasqualinno.be

China: www.asianbeveragecompany.com

USA: www.diamondwineimporters.com

www.frederickwildman.com

Aidani Estate Argyros

admin — Tue, 20 Apr 2010 07:49:39 +0000

Assyrtiko-based Santorini, is a complex, full-throttle, mineralic vin de terroir. One thing it is not is an aperitif wine. Yet, in the numerous white grapes found in the vineyard, the last of the 3 As (Athiri, Assyrtiko and Aidani) is the most aromatic. Very little of it is grown on the island, it is highly prized, especially sought to brighten up the aromatic profile of the expensive, sweet, sun-dried Vinsanto. Aidani commands Euro 1.45 per kg. versus Assyrtiko’s Euro 1.05 kg. (prices for the 2009 vintage). Approaching harvest, there is much café-lobbying and vivid mobile-phone bidding by the now 13 wineries on this one-of-a-kind, historic island vineyard.

The island’s Canava with the oldest and finest Vinsanto reserves is the third-generation and fourth-generation father Yannis and son Mattheos Argyros. 10 years ago, they planted 1.2 hectares of Aidani in Episkopi Gonias, in the time-honoured and unique to this island basket-shaped pruning. Most of their Aidani ends up in the class-leading Vinsanto. As of 2005, a limited quantity is bottled as a varietal. As chronicled in my 2009 vintage report (see under Articles), the unusually cooler summer and harvest conditions played handsomely into enhancing the aromatic subtleties of this Cycladic-island rarity. Yannis Argyros adds, “We were not looking to add another label (there are 10) but wanted to show this as a varietal. To date, the 2009 is the most complete vintage.” Another factor for suggesting this wine as a sipping wine is the lower alcohol of 12.5% ABV, approximately one degree less than Assyrtiko-based wines. It is longer lived than the fragile Athiri (see my recent posting on the exceptional Santo Wines example). At this level, this Aidani will keep its vibrancy for up to two years.

Pale yellow-green tints. Fragrant. Lemon blossom with a smokey mineral background. Textured. Richly flavoured. Crisp bone-dry bracing pyritic finish. A great balancing act, combining the floral aromatics and the unmistakable pronounced terroir. Classy and stylish. A different facet of this never a dull terroir.

Score: 17.5/20

For more details please visit www.estate-argyros.com

Athiri Santo Wines

admin — Mon, 29 Mar 2010 07:52:09 +0000

One never knows what Santorini’s volcanic embrace holds. During a five-day visit, with tastings at nine wineries, the most unexpected wine was the Athiri produced by Santo Wines (the Cooperative). In this instance, the saying ‘wine has the last word’ could not hold more true.

Historians tell us Athiri has been in the southern Aegean islands since classical times. For years, my textbook example has been Athiri found amongst pine forests and stony slopes on Mount Ebonas, on southern Rhodes. Athiri on Santorini is part of the vineyard mix. Placed between the bold-tasting Assyrtiko and the softer, fragrant Aidani. Athiri does not have an easy life here. It is prone to rot. The summer maritime humidity more often does take its toll. Nevertheless, in recent memory, the generally delicate Athiri has had a chance to shine on its own here. The 2009 Greek vintage was difficult. (Look for my vintage report under Articles).

Santo Wines have been trying hard to raise their game. Oenologist Nikos Varvarigos has both the vision and tools to commit considerable resources on this blue-chip, demanding terroir. There is marked improvement throughout their range. Light years away from their past mediocrities I first experienced in the 1990s. Residual sugar and other off-the-mark, directionless styles.

During tasting with the reserved Nikos Varvarigos in what must be one of the most sublime views in the world, overlooking the Caldera and the youngest volcanic island of Nea Kameni, the 2009 Athiri quietly grabbed my attention. It was a revelation. This limited release, all of 3,000 bottles, sold only at the cellar door, is the near-perfect spring-summer sipping wine. It does not have the staying power of the Assyrtiko-based Santorinis. It will hold through autumn. As my turbo-propped plane swooped up into the cloudy sky, I could not stop wondering how such frail beauty could be born in such a hostile, windswept ecosystem. Ditto for a certain saying on wine.
Skin contact, resulting in white flowers, honeysuckle. Faint minerality. Soft, juicy, layered mineral persistence. Subtle, long finish. Digestive and refreshing. Elegant. Hugely surprising. A rare treat.

Score: 16.5/20

For more details, please visit: www.santowines.gr

Blink Brut Sparlking Wine Blink Wines

admin — Wed, 27 Jan 2010 14:40:37 +0000

I have mentioned, in these pages, the unrealised opportunity lying untapped in the sparkling wine category. Finally, Blink is with us. Not only does it carve a niche, but it brings back a fun element, which, frankly, has been absent far too long in Greek wine.

Behind this playfully packaged and named sparkler is Fanny, the 24-year-old and half-French – nobody’s perfect – daughter of veteran oenologist Pavlos Arghyropoulos. Fanny combines her mother’s charm and father’s savvy. So far so good. It actually gets better. The approach of sourcing is an inspired choice. The grapes are organically-farmed Muscat of Alexandria. They are sourced from the northern-Aegean volcanic island of Lemnos, which is more famous for its sweet versions of this popular grape. I enjoyed this newcomer in early December at a melancholic empty summer resort near Thessaloniki. The dusk light dwindled as we were squinting to catch the cormorants dipping about by a mussel farm. This on a backdrop of shades of winter grey melting into the purple rays of the northern Aegean sunset. Occasionally, the hurly-burly life of a wine writer does have its moments! Wine writers know how bad Muscat can be. Vulgar off-putting aromas, misplaced, disjointed flavours are some of the ‘horrors’ we are occasionally exposed to. Well, there is nothing of the sort here. It is as bright as the spring light over the sandy beaches on this off-the-beaten-track island. Residual sugar is on the cusp of the limit of Brut, that is to say 15 g./litre. It is in no way cloying or tiring, thanks to a great fruit/acid balance. It is made with the cuve-close (closed tank) method. As of spring 2010, Blink will also be available in 75-cl. bottles.

Medium- to small-sized mousse. Yellow-golden. Clean floral aroma. Shows varietal-true, enticing lemon flavours. A lift of racy acidity on the juicy finish. Full of personality. On the serious side of fun. Best appreciated soon.

Score: 15.5/20

E-mail: info@blinkwines.com

Assyrtiko by Gaia Wild Ferment

admin — Tue, 01 Sep 2009 12:37:46 +0000

In one of my recent introductions to Greek wine in Geneva, Switzerland that is, the shock value of this wine, amongst 7 other labels I was showcasing was on cue. Even the more reserved and less expressive amongst a discerning group, more akin in discussing the nuances of Burgundy’s most distinctive name- places, reacted with looks of disbelief. The high-acid mineralic structure of Santorini, leaves few, if anyone, indifferent. Eric Asimov, the wine critic of the NewYork Times, wrote about a Santorini a couple years back during an impromptu tasting(in plastic…cups!) during a tourist convention in the big Apple . Amongst, other, lesser- known impressive wines was the elder brother label of WF Gaia’s Thalassitis. Which thanks to its export successes has helped this volcanic islands unique wines to create an international cult following.

The George Clooney look-alike, partner and oenologist at Gaia,Yiannis Paraskevopoulos, had a twinkle in his eye when he casually dropped the hint that a wild ferment Assyrtiko was on the drawing board. The thing with wild yeasts is that they have an idiosyncratic agenda all of their own. One quite never knows how they will ‘behave’ and what the final result will be. My note taking books are littered with unflattering weird epithets. Though WF is not an easy wine happy to report that this effort stands proud with confidence mirroring the extraordinary terroir it is born on. Not just for this limited release newcomer, a tip. Santorinis show best after aerating them in a carafe for 15-20 minutes.

Platinum – green tints. A profusion of pyrhitic mineralic aromas. Hint of oak. Big, ripe. White pepper. Impressively pungent with a seamless duo of intense acidity and a layered very austere structured grapefruit saline finish. Compact with extract. Here the term bone dry scales new heights. In other words? Hardly a sipping wine. It shouts for food. However focused and intriguing this effort is, the cynic in me thinks it as a clever marketing gimmick. As the overwhelming (count me in on this)majority will opt for the 2008 Thalassitis. It has more fruit and does not explore the extreme edged territory WF has ventured in.

Score: 18/20

For more details login www.gaia-wines.gr

Samos Nectar Liastos Vin Naturellement Doux

admin — Sat, 03 Jan 2009 16:09:56 +0000

December 1995, in a packed room at a Christies auction in Geneva . I had marked two lots of rare old Samos in my catalogue. As none was available at the pre-auction tasting, I had no idea about the condition of these old Muscats.

How many of these older vintages are still around? My feeling is, very few. Samos was toasted in Versailles before the French monarchy was toppled. In Flanders and in various German , Polish and Scandinavian port towns. Much later, up to the 1920s, it was also shipped in cask to Swiss merchants in the Valais.

After hard bidding, I was lucky to secure both of these lots of, rarely seen on the market, 1927 and 1919 Samos vintages. From the now defunct (more about this shortly) Karlovassi based negociants C.P. Antoniades.

Fast forward to autumn 2007, when I made a two day journey to the island. While admiring the recently completed museum, amongst numerous precious old bottles, their labels in French, German, English and Swedish, was a solitary 1927 Antoniades which I had donated to the Union of Samos Coop in 1996.

The Samos Union was set up by a government decree in 1934, following the civil war that erupted when short ended farmers revolted against the greediness of the negociants. That is another story, told in detail in my forthcoming book.

In today’s export market, Samos remains a paradox. More appreciated abroad than home, it holds the top spot as the most exported Greek wine. Which country adores sweet Muscat the most? France. The clear favourite in the Hexagone is the fortified (15% ABV) Olympio Samos Grand Cru.

It was here on the island that I first tasted this 1975 Nectar. Thirty two years on, it is now in perfect shape. Such ‘liquid history’, retailing at selected Athens merchants for Euro 50 per 375 ml bottle does not often come around. 14% ABV with total acidity 7.3 g./l. Residual sugar: 190 g./l. Tellingly, the pH is 3.5. As this 1975 Liastos (sun dried) is a rare release, I urge you to go out and get some.

Mahogany. Classy volatile lift. Caramelized orange peel. A dusting of cocoa. Layered. Dessicated fig and cigar leaf. “Dry” finish with red tea and sage herbal notes. Balanced.
A wonderful example of oxydative aged Muscat’s.

Score: 18.5/20

For more details see: www.samoswine.gr

Greece distributor: www.karoulias.gr

French importer: www.la-martiniquaise.fr