2009
Aidani Estate Argyros

Assyrtiko-based Santorini, is a complex, full-throttle, mineralic  vin de terroir.  One thing it is not is an aperitif wine. Yet, in the numerous white grapes found in the vineyard, the last of the 3 As (Athiri, Assyrtiko and Aidani) is the most aromatic. Very little of it is grown on the island, it is highly prized, especially sought to brighten up the aromatic profile of the expensive, sweet, sun-dried  Vinsanto. Aidani commands Euro 1.45 per kg. versus Assyrtiko’s Euro 1.05 kg. (prices for the 2009 vintage). Approaching harvest, there is much café-lobbying and vivid mobile-phone bidding by the now 13 wineries on this one-of-a-kind, historic island vineyard.

The island’s Canava with the oldest and finest Vinsanto reserves is the third-generation and fourth-generation father Yannis and son Mattheos Argyros. 10 years ago, they planted 1.2 hectares of Aidani in Episkopi Gonias, in the time-honoured and unique to this island basket-shaped pruning. Most of their Aidani ends up in the class-leading Vinsanto. As of 2005, a limited quantity is bottled as a varietal. As chronicled in my 2009 vintage report (see under Articles), the unusually cooler summer and harvest conditions played handsomely into enhancing the aromatic subtleties of this Cycladic-island rarity. Yannis Argyros adds, “We were not looking to add another label (there are 10) but wanted to show this as a varietal. To date, the 2009 is the most complete vintage.” Another factor for suggesting this wine as a sipping wine is the lower alcohol of 12.5% ABV, approximately one degree less than Assyrtiko-based wines. It is longer lived than the fragile Athiri (see my recent posting on the exceptional Santo Wines example). At this level, this Aidani will keep its vibrancy for up to two years.

Pale yellow-green tints. Fragrant. Lemon blossom with a smokey mineral background. Textured. Richly flavoured. Crisp bone-dry bracing pyritic finish. A great balancing act, combining the floral aromatics and the unmistakable pronounced terroir. Classy and stylish. A different facet of this never a dull terroir.

Score: 17.5/20

For more details please visit www.estate-argyros.com

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20.04.2010


2009
Athiri Santo Wines

One never knows what Santorini’s volcanic embrace holds. During a five-day visit, with tastings at nine wineries, the most unexpected wine was the Athiri produced by Santo Wines (the Cooperative). In this instance, the saying ‘wine has the last word’ could not hold more true.

Historians tell us Athiri has been in the southern Aegean islands since classical times. For years, my textbook example has been Athiri found amongst pine forests and stony slopes on Mount Ebonas,  on southern Rhodes. Athiri on Santorini is part of the vineyard mix. Placed between the bold-tasting Assyrtiko and the softer, fragrant  Aidani.  Athiri does not have an easy life here. It is prone to rot. The summer maritime humidity more often does take its toll. Nevertheless, in recent memory, the generally delicate Athiri has had a chance to shine on its own here. The 2009 Greek vintage was difficult. (Look for my vintage report under Articles).

Santo Wines have been trying hard to raise their game. Oenologist Nikos Varvarigos has both the vision and tools to commit considerable resources on this blue-chip, demanding  terroir. There is marked improvement throughout their range. Light years away from their past mediocrities I first experienced in the 1990s. Residual sugar and other off-the-mark, directionless styles.

During tasting with the reserved Nikos Varvarigos in what must be one of the most sublime views in the world, overlooking the Caldera and the youngest volcanic island of Nea Kameni, the 2009 Athiri quietly grabbed my attention. It was a revelation. This limited release, all of 3,000 bottles, sold only at the cellar door, is the near-perfect spring-summer sipping wine. It does not have the staying power of the Assyrtiko-based Santorinis. It will hold through autumn. As my turbo-propped plane swooped up into the cloudy sky, I could not stop wondering how such frail beauty could be born in such a hostile, windswept ecosystem. Ditto for a certain saying on wine.
Skin contact, resulting in white flowers, honeysuckle.  Faint minerality.  Soft, juicy, layered mineral persistence. Subtle, long finish. Digestive and refreshing.  Elegant. Hugely surprising.  A rare treat.

Score: 16.5/20

For more details, please visit: www.santowines.gr

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29.03.2010


Blink Brut Sparlking Wine Blink Wines

blinkI have mentioned, in these pages, the unrealised opportunity lying untapped in the sparkling wine category. Finally, Blink is with us. Not only does it carve a niche, but it brings back a fun element, which, frankly, has been absent far too long in Greek wine.

Behind this playfully packaged and named sparkler is Fanny, the 24-year-old and half-French – nobody’s perfect – daughter of veteran oenologist Pavlos Arghyropoulos. Fanny combines her mother’s charm and father’s savvy. So far so good. It actually gets better. The approach of sourcing is an inspired choice. The grapes are organically-farmed Muscat of Alexandria. They are sourced from the northern-Aegean volcanic island of Lemnos, which is more famous for its sweet versions of this popular grape. I enjoyed this newcomer in early December at a melancholic empty summer resort near Thessaloniki. The dusk light dwindled as we were squinting to catch the cormorants dipping about by a mussel farm. This on a backdrop of shades of winter grey melting into the purple rays of the northern Aegean sunset. Occasionally, the hurly-burly life of a wine writer does have its moments! Wine writers know how bad Muscat can be. Vulgar off-putting aromas, misplaced, disjointed flavours are some of the ‘horrors’ we are occasionally exposed to. Well, there is nothing of the sort here. It is as bright as the spring light over the sandy beaches on this off-the-beaten-track island. Residual sugar is on the cusp of the limit of Brut, that is to say 15 g./litre. It is in no way cloying or tiring, thanks to a great fruit/acid balance. It is made with the cuve-close (closed tank) method. As of spring 2010, Blink will also be available in 75-cl. bottles.

Medium- to small-sized mousse. Yellow-golden. Clean floral aroma. Shows varietal-true, enticing lemon flavours. A lift of racy acidity on the juicy finish. Full of personality. On the serious side of fun. Best appreciated soon.

Score: 15.5/20

E-mail: info@blinkwines.com

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27.01.2010