In a recent, in depth visit to Crete, I came across several unexpected  suprises. Searching for terroir usually ends returning to base with not much to show for. This time persistence paid off. Clocking 1,200kms on Greece’s largest in size island made it more than worthwhile. In addition to the reviewed wine, the discovery of a heritage terroir, on a new to me topsoil is one in once in decade stuff. This DNA bank is a major find. The un -grafted Vidiano(a promising white grape) is 98 years old. More importantly this name place of the still largely unrealized potential of the Cretan vineyard has as a modern cosmopolitan profile. It will stand, anywhere. Look out for future postings.

It is timely, to reveal a long held fascination with Mandilari. My gut feeling kept telling me that something special was lurking beyond those unattractive green vegetative notes and mouth puckering drying tannic structure.  7 years ago, while visiting on Rhodes,  I got a sneak preview when then flying winemaker Angelos Iatridis was experimenting with a smaller berried clone of Mandilari for the Emery winery.  Iatridis analysis findings were revealing. The potential was way above my empirical hunch. The chief culprit for the less sexier Mandilari varietal and blends about is that it still by in large planted in the wrong place and over cropped.

It took the focused team of  Lyrarakis technicians to locate a potentially promising terroir. The Plakoura vineyard is on sand-stoney soil slope. They are low yielding 17 year old bush vines. Agronomist Nikos Somarakis with oenologist Myriam Abuzer are realists. They both admit that it still is an ongoing struggle, to unlock all of its potential in every vintage. They are on to a good thing. From my vantage point it has been years of patiently waiting to taste such Cretan Mandilari. Bravo.

Very dark red. Viscous. Summer herbs with a telltale Aegean vinosity.  Broad shouldered. Attractive balancing freshness with robust mouthwatering tannic bite.  Seamless cask. Polished.   Intense and demanding.  Best 2010-2018.

Score: 16.5/20

For further information please visit www.lyrarakis.gr

Greece agent   www.genkacomm.gr

He argues, convincingly, that he had no other choice in making such wines. It is the anomaly of the Ziros plateau (600 m.) that these 60- to 70-year-old ungrafted vines are solely responsible for delivering low yields and a naturally high acidity. He adds, “I just nurture them (very low sulphuring) and bottle when I feel they are ready”.

He does admit to selling off lesser vintages and keeping only the best vintages. The current release is the 2000 Sitia. The only other dry vintage to preview was a stunning 2006 Sitia. It tasted so shockingly youthful that it only reiterated Economou’s viewpoint of his unique plateau where he sources his remarkable grapes. Economou claims that what is called “Liatiko” in central and western Crete could well be another, altogether different grape. I am not so sure. Fellow Cretan producer Nikos Douloufakis, in Dafnes, above the town of Iraklio, claims he has seen the Ziros Liatiko grapes. He says it is a different, smaller-berried clone. Coupled with the high altitude and much cooler nights, this may explain the measurable difference in styles and the success of this remarkable bone-dry red wine.

Having recently enjoyed a Morgon by the father of natural wine, the late Marcel Lapierre, I could not help thinking what Marcel would have thought of this vin-de-terroir natural-wine rarity.

Pale, ruby brown. Initially reductive, it opens up after 20 minutes in carafe. Very Burgundian, floral and spice, Pinot-noir nose.  Ethereal, very fine aromas evolving in the glass. Delicate but insistent middle palate that blossoms in layers on the aftertaste.  A wine of great purity. Classy. Complete.  There is nothing remotely quite like it elsewhere in the Greek vineyard.Best: 2010-2015

Score: 18.5 / 20

For more information please visit: http://wineryeconomou.blogspot.com/