Producer: Katogi Averoff, Metsovo, Epiros.

One of the most successful (re)discoveries of indigenous varieties has, yet again, proven that wine does have the last word. Having first tasted, this previously scoffed at grape, in early spring I was impressed. Subsequent tastings have been a revelation.

Some semiotics: The label is in the Vlach language, one of the four Lower Latin Balkan languages (related to Romanian) spoken in the mountains of Pindos and elsewhere in Northern Greece. “Rossiu di munte” means “mountain red “. “Vlachiko” is Greek for Vlachish (grape). The vines (725 m.) are on a gravel river bed on the estate of the Monastery of Voutsas in eastern Zagori. An area surrounded by mountains, the mesoclimate is continental. The day – night temperature variation is marked and comes through in the wine.

The 2005 vintage is a crackerjack in these hills and terrific throughout Greece. Medium deep colour, black pepper aromatics. Spicy bright fruit, layered, and oozing freshness. With a useful 12,8% ABV, it is balance in itself. For the techno geeks, it was fermented at 20-25°C and then cask aged for six months in 300 litre Nevers oak casks, medium toasting. Bottled unfiltered. The vineyard consultant is Haroula Spinthiropoulou, who, along with oenologist Dimitris Ziannis, are top professionals. From the hard work and few words school.

Score: 17

More info: www.katogihotel.gr

24.09.2008

• Thrace
• Macedonia
• Epiros
• Thessalia
• Sterea Ellada
• Peloponnese
• Aegean Islands
• Ionian Islands
• Crete