Greek Wine World » Ionian Islands

Lefkaditiki Gi Vertzami

admin — Tue, 10 May 2011 13:44:37 +0000

I love Syrah. But after tasting several new producers’ efforts, detachment set in – and for a good reason. Deeply coloured. Loaded with bright fruit. For the most part suave tannins, cocoa-oak notes galore. They could have been produced anywhere in the world. There is an audience for Syrah, and the reasons why such styles exist are many. Only one, from a little-known region, had a sense of place, a soul. Not all of the numerous topsoils and mesoclimates in Greece will produce “fireworks”, such as this lone, and a future star in the making. So my attention turned to an indigenous red grape you have probably never heard of: Vertzami. It is to be found on the Ionian Islands, in western Greece. I recall the word Vertzamo (-i) since I was around 8-9 years of age, harking back to my Corfiot autumns. Its dark skin colour made an impression on me at the time. It still does, today. Ampelographer Haroula Spinthiropoulou says, “There are several clones in the central part of high Lefkada. Above 500 m., it ripens with difficulty. There is unlocked potential.’’

The style of this wine could not be further away from the aforementioned confected Syrahs. When fully mature, it is reminiscent of that other great tannic high-acid red grape, Switzerland’s Cornalin. The owner of the Lefkafitiki Gi winery, oenologist Dimitris Robotis, is on to a good thing here. He works closely with his suppliers, trying to persuade them to lower yields in order to achieve phenolic ripeness. His marketing communication is understated and to the point. The uncluttered back label of this fascinating, high-quality variety carries the following message: “No big stories. Just quality wine!”

Restrained aroma of spice and violets. A defined, delicious tannic grip. Shades of integrated oak. A core of red cherries. Vivacious, crisp palate. Expressive mountain character comes through on the finish. Best: 2011-2015

Score: 17

For more information, please visit www.lefkaditikigi.gr

Lefkaditiki Gi

admin — Tue, 19 Apr 2011 09:50:07 +0000

Lefkada, the Ionian island, brims with wine history. Yet, even insiders would have a hard time mustering a few sentences on today’s scene. Earlier visits remained ones of unrealised potential. I was therefore excited to see changes in my return. With over 300 indigenous varieties, nature has been generous to the fragmented historic Greek vineyard. Lefkada surprises, with two grapes which are the specialty of this island: the white Vardea and the dark-skinned Vertzami.

Nothing quite prepares you for the wild beauty of the southern part of the island. An overcast early-spring morning, dense dark green olive groves. Sunlight bursting through silver and white clouds, casting giant shadows over a silvery Ionian sea. A sense of wonder, seizing this change-of-season moment.

Driving past Nidri, the island sailing hub, one leaves behind the off-season resort melancholy. As the twisting road climbs en route to Vassiliki, one of the world’s great windsurfing spots, one arrives at the Lefkaditiki Gi winery. Its honey-coloured stone buildings would not have been out of place in southern Tuscany, or Umbria. To this traveller, it is the most attractive recently built (finished in 2008) wine address to date. Mediterranean at its best. Dimitris Robotis is a man of taste. This goes beyond his architectural interests.

Most of his wines are sold locally, or exported. With the current meltdown of the Greek economy, he is clearly less exposed than if he had depended on national distributors going bust and leaving large unpaid bills. Market sources say it will be even worse in 2012.

Vardea is one of the most intriguing lesser- seen high-quality grapes. The wine it produces is distinctly different from that other Ionian-island great white grape, Robola from Cephalonia. The success of this flourishing winery has spurred more acreage of the distinct Vardea now been planted in the sandy-clay soils of the villages of Vassiliki, Kontarena and Ayios Petros. These initiatives are more than just news. They are important steps in strengthening regional diversity and individuality in a market awash with me-too blends.

Golden. Floral. Smells of grapes. Orange peel. Creamy texture lifted by minerality. Tannic bite. Honeyed opulent fruit lingers. By far, the most exciting discovery in ages. A bright light for the future.

Score: 16.5/20

For more information, please visit www.lefkaditikigi.gr

Robola Cellar Selection Gentilini

admin — Mon, 10 Nov 2008 11:09:16 +0000

The driving force behind the ongoing revival of this 1980s pioneer boutique address is the irrepressible Petros Markantonatos. A fellow Ionian to me, the embodiment of the mischievous Lixoriote-Cephalonian spirit . Armed with witty repartee. An arsenal of puns. Oh yes, and his humour: it can slaughter imaginary or real monsters. He is, also, a man on a mission.

While tooling with the micro-cuvee of the estate’s Syrah, he has been up to (what else?) more mischief in the cellar. First, he earmarked a high (850 m.), single vineyard of ungrafted Robola, planted in 1954 (following the devastating 1953 earthquake). He then revved up research on numerous ambient yeast strains of this other great white indigenous grape. Dozens of micro-vinifications later, the Robola 2007 CS is now with us. In essence, it represents a trial effort, ultimately seeking to improve his very good Robola. Interestingly, the restless Petros also tried all these wines with synthetic closures as well as natural cork. The aromatic profile was slightly more intense with natural cork. Methinks, why not go all the way and screw cap it? The ultra-conservative home market, though, is not quite ready for it, yet.

Even without the above suggested closure, it is all around sharper in focus. It exhibits more concentration vis-a-vis his current Robola, which, at 28 hectolitres per hectare, could hardly be described as thin. Redolent of jasmine and lemon zest. There is more depth and a clearer definition of the island’s flint-stone Robola character. The severe bright acid mineral tow on the finish is pretty serious stuff. It reminds me of the Kimmeridgian Chablis Grand Cru soil. There is no doubt that the CS is a smart path towards eliciting even more terroir out of the Mount Ainos limestone rocky slopes, covered with vines, maquis and ‘waves’ of silvery-green olive trees that fade into the Ionian Sea.

For the time being, the Robola CS is sold at the winery. One last thing: The island’s hued autumn light is nothing short of wondrous.

Score: 17.5/20

For more details see: www.gentilini.gr and www.gentiliniretreat.gr

Athens distributor: www.karoulias.gr

Importer USA: www.atheneeimporters.com

Distributor USA East Coast: www.winebow.com