2008
Areti Biblia Chora

Agiorgitiko is new to northern Greece: all of 12 years. Having in situ tasted current and forthcoming releases, the future looks bright. The cherry core present in Nemea is still there, enveloped by a tauter, less Mediterranean generosity. As seen in this review, it is capable to stand its ground as a varietal. However, the great surprise was some rather clever blends. There will be a series of postings. Four such wines in the rich 2010 and the pretty 2011 vintages are a step up. In fact, they take your breath away.Vassilis Tsaktsakrlis ‘‘listens’’ to his numerous vineyards. As vines with time increase complexity, he fine-tunes blends accordingly. In my recent visit, all wines were focused and articulate, subtle and effective. His gentle touch and use of cooperage is textbook. A consummate professional, he is a man of few words, with the smarts to keep away from politics. He is walking the vineyards most of the time. It shows. The 2008 was, again, not a uniform vintage, with regional variations swinging either way. In broad strokes, solid yet low on excitement. Certain mesoclimates and addresses achieved a touch of seriousness. There is no doubt of wines improving not something than can be said about label design. Even though there are improvements, the packaging of some of today’s Greek wine is doing little justice to it’s content. This label stands apart. At first glance it reminded me of  Spanish landscapes ‘‘leaping’’ from Miles Davis’s Concierto de Aranjuez. The artist? Vassilis’s daughter, Areti: She painted Harvest when she was seven. I can see her perky-faced shot framed in her dad’s office. There is little doubt that the northern expressions of Agiorgitiko will continue to pleasantly surprise us. Beyond the senses, they tickle the intellect. Nemea is hedonistic, at this juncture Macedonia has added stature. Watch this space for more!

Purple rim. Dark, for this grape. Red berry fruit with gentle cocoa aroma. Layers of velvety tannins. Morello cherry follows up on a creamy intensity. Stony mineral on the richly-flavoured, fine-grained, dry finish. Serious stuff. Best 2012-2018.

Score: 17.5 /20

For more information please visit: www.bibliachora.gr

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16.12.2011


Domaine Karanika Cuvée Speciale Brut

Frankly, I never thought I would be writing these lines. In essence, this post has been in waiting for 17 years. What’s it all about:  The missing link in today’s Greek wine has arrived.  I cannot wait to share my enthusiasm on this new entry.

In all of the fragmented Greek vineyard, it is landlocked Amyndeon that boasts of the most impressive diurnal temperature variations. Recent statistics only reinforce the comparative advantage of this cooler climate. For several reasons, it is ideal for sparkling wines.

Xinomavro is an endlessly fascinating grape. It is different in warmer Naoussa, where the aromatics are more Mediterranean (tomato vine comes to mind), and in Goumenissa, with its  discreet, spicy aroma – and these are just two out of several nearby sites where this leading cultivar is to be found. Furthermore, the Xinomavro-induced aromatic and palate intensity would be overpowering for a sparkling wine. The subtlety and freshness of Amyndeon wins hand down

What is admirable is that a relative newcomer, the Dutchman Laurence Hartman, found his way around this largely uncharted, nuanced Xinomavro terroir. Thanks to a thought-through approach and the precision required for a  handcrafted Méthode traditionelle, we are also seeing the more discreet  side of this, now booming, region. The choice of focusing on 40-year-old vines contributes to a restrained, polished profile.

This Blanc de noir is a revelation. It has been taught good manners. Yet, my gut feeling is that there is still so much more to learn and receive from this, now urbanized, strong-gene peasant. For this I what I can only liken it to due to the infinite guises and name places to which this grape is capable of morphing into. I urge you to search elsewhere on this site my chronicling of the new wave of Xinomavro and blends. If you like wines that speak to heart and mind, then you may have found a new soul mate.

To date, of the 12 wineries now operating in Amyndeon, Domaine Karanika has under its belt the most convincing effort in this under-invested category. Catch early this unfolding act and, pokerfaced, glass in hand,  go ahead and surprise your friends. Serve it blind. As this going-places address grows, I expect new nuances to be introduced  to this, so far, all-black grape cuvée.  Perhaps some of the delectable 2011 vintage could undergo its secondary fermentation in magnums.

Beyond pleasure, further clues could be gleamed on the microclimate and the silt, sandy and limestone bedrock on which these vineyards sit. Laurence is a thinker; he plans ahead. Beyond a twinkle in his eye there is grit. It serves him well. This is an estate to watch. As I leave, his smiling wife Annette and a school of dogs see me off in the autumn afternoon mist. Heading west on the Egnatia Highway to under-revival Siatista for yet another Xinomavro “you-know-what”.

Pink-grey hues. Fine, small, bead mousse. Yeasty. Subtle gunflint. Hint of strawberry. Finely defined tannins. Vibrant, tangy acid. Persistent “string of pearls” beads with no sign of going flat even after 15 minutes in a fluted glass. Neat and light-footed, elegant even. From the 2009 maiden vintage. Best 2012 – 2015.

Score: 17 / 20

For more details please visit www.karanika.com

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21.11.2011


2009
Naoussa Thymiopoulos

The colour of several Naoussas has become increasingly, and atypically, darker. Is this down to climate change? I do not think so. New clones? The acreage is minute to make such a difference.

One of the attractive traits of this grape is its inherently medium red colour. There is no purple-blue anthocyanin here as in Syrah or Aghiorghitiko. Colour-wise it keeps company with Pinot Noir. Its tannic structure resembles Nebbiolo from Piemonte.

Unfortunately, a few addresses are succumbing to a makeover notion that ”darker is better”. I find it a pity that the odd bucket or two of Syrah, or poorly farmed Merlot, find their way into these wines. Yet, the crux of the problem is farming practices. Few Greek winemakers understand that, with climate change and vines overstressed by lack of water, especially during véraison, there is a risk for the muscular tannins of Xinomavro to dry out. Recent statistics show a decrease in annual rainfall on this patchwork of vineyards below Mount Vermion (2,052 m.), especially during periods when it is most needed. Moreover, only a handful of vignerons are willing to risk harvesting late, which would give this vigorous grape a chance to deliver fully ripened grapes

Ever since the remarkably aromatic and delicate 2004, I have chronicled the rise of Ghi ke Uranos(Earth and Sky). It was more than an eye-opener; it was the long-awaited next step.

With this young-vine Naoussa, Apostolos Thymiopoulos continues to set an example to this underperforming appellation of how to ripen Xinomavro. This estate has now become Naoussa’s tannin management champions. This single-vineyard wine in its maiden vintage comes from the young vines on the Ghi ke Uranos slope. Back in 2005, I took note of these, then scrawny, vines. Wine from these young vines was sold in bulk – until now. There is a lot to be said for patience: It is essential if one is to make a statement backed by deeds, rather than marketing hype.

It is for this level of commitment in safeguarding the high standards of Ghi ke Uranos (Uranos in the US) that this producer continues to earn praise. 2009 was a difficult, rain-plagued vintage, but the breeze on this slope helped out against rot, as did terroir.

Bright ruby. Upfront fruity charm. Dark cherries, freshness. Smooth texture. Seamless oak. Persistent, crystalline, elegant. Purity and breed. Serve at cellar temperature. Best 2011-2016.

Score:  17 / 20

US Importer :    www.atheneeimporters.com

US Distributor:  www.winebow.com

UK : www.thewinesociety.com

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4.08.2011