Macedonia | Greek Wine World

2006
Organic Cabernet Sauvignon Chalkidiki Tsantali

A behemoth of Greek wine, Tsantali is 12 million bottles large. You can find something of their vast range on many a remote island. In villages, even settlements, where a bakaliko (grocery store) acts as social centre. This ubiquitous giant also distils those quintessentially Greek drinks, tsipouro and ouzo.

One quite never knows what Tsantali has in mind. More recently, having headhunted Panayoti Kyriakidis from Ampeloeniki (a leading consulting outfit), they appointed him as Chief Oenologist. I am closely watching what new ideas and direction this experienced technician and his team will bring to this volume-oriented wine and spirit address. The reviewed wine shows that they can do small (for them) lots of 15,000 bottles, which are worth the discovery of a bull’s-eye effort. As I have mentioned in these pages, overwhelmingly Greek CS are off-target. Made according to a French protocol, not tuned to Greek climatic farming requirements, they do not have much of a future. In the current grim financial situation, crystal-ball gazing what to replant for the future comes sharply into focus. Yet, this organic vineyard, located opposite their sprawling base in Aghios Pavlos, Chalkidiki, could not be a more enticingly no-compromise example. Soil is silty clay lying on a bedrock of limestone. My favourite pet of phenolically ripened tannins is near-perfect. Indeed, such were the seductive powers of this lucent varietal, it left me enchanted. It is also good to see one of the big players offer such characterful individuality.

Deep red. Initially ‘sweet’ nose with spice and chocolate. It opens up to earthy notes, cedar. Shoulder is covered with encrusted tannin in what the French call ‘chemise’. Ripe tannins, well-knit oak. Generous, persistent feral finish. Big and bold. Carafing recommended. Best: 2010-15.

Score: 17/20

For more details please visit www.tsantali.gr

Exclusive Greece retailer: www.wine-house.gr

12.05.2010

2007
Syrah Ktima Pavlidis

syrah This relative newcomer has several aces up its sleeve. It was built on – so to speak – solid foundations in the vineyard. Nothing has been spared in winemaking kit. With the passing of every new vintage, Christophoros Pavlidis, who made his fortune in marble, granite and construction, seems en route to succeed in his lofty ambitions to join the upper echelon of leading estates. No one can underestimate the importance of the human factor in any project. The old adage ‘you are only as good as your team’ could not be more appropriate for the capable hands of Nikos Karatzas. He is far more mature than his 32 years of age. Member of the new generation of technicians who are so in tune with their vineyards. Recently, I spent time with him. Ktima Pavlidis is lucky to have him. Watch out for the video to be posted with highlights from my visit in the company of this all-round über-talented chemist-oenologist. There are other impressive wines in this going places estate: The 2009 Assyrtiko is a very convincing varietal, introducing yet another facet of this great grape. Yet, it was the 2007 Syrah that tipped the scales for me. There are several pleasant enough Greek Syrahs. Few do stand out and are carving a great future. This varietal from western Drama is one of them.

Dark. Perfumed purity. Generous backbone, oozing minerality. Refined tannins. Lush and vivid. Think of northern Rhone with Greek gutsiness. Best 2010-2016.

Score: 17/20

For more details, please visit: www.ktima-pavlidis.gr

11.02.2010

2007
Goumenissa Single Vineyard I Aidarinis

Have not been in ages this excited for a Xinomavro blend. Christos Aidarinis, a stalwart in the Goumenissa appellation, has, with this Single Vineyard I, nailed it on the head. Life for a grape farmer is not easy in this sleepy appellation, nestled in the foothills of Mount Paiko (1,650 m.). Vintages are dodgy. Heavy rainfall during harvest time is often an issue. This was not the case in 2007. In fact, the heat wave, coupled with careful farming, coaxed the finicky Xinomavro and the ‘sister’ grape in this appellation, Negoska, into ripening evenly and fully. Other factors come into play here. The vineyard was planted in 1978, so these are arguably old vines. Furthermore, the rolling hills of Gymni Rachi, from where this wine hails, is another pearl of information on the unlocked potential of Goumenissa. A hunch: ‘Gerakona‘ is another (potentially great?) red-wine terroir. Now, a favour: May someone come up with an answer to this question: Why on earth is the smart money not quietly investing in this unrealised-potential patch of Xinomavro-Negoska tapestry?
Fragrant, not unlike what only great Burgundy and Barolo can be. Hide and seek, as both grapes feed off and complement each other. Crunchy red fruit alternating with sous bois earthiness. Mid-palate is chock-a-block of fine-grained tannins. Tasty freshness on the finish. Exemplary winemaking and gentle use of oak. Keeps unfolding in the glass. Hallmarked by terroir and finesse. Best 2010-2015.
Score: 17/20
E-mail: aidarini@otenet.gr

11.01.2010

Wine geography