Agiorgitiko is new to northern Greece: all of 12 years. Having in situ tasted current and forthcoming releases, the future looks bright. The cherry core present in Nemea is still there, enveloped by a tauter, less Mediterranean generosity. As seen in this review, it is capable to stand its ground as a varietal. However, the great surprise was some rather clever blends. There will be a series of postings. Four such wines in the rich 2010 and the pretty 2011 vintages are a step up. In fact, they take your breath away.Vassilis Tsaktsakrlis ‘‘listens’’ to his numerous vineyards. As vines with time increase complexity, he fine-tunes blends accordingly. In my recent visit, all wines were focused and articulate, subtle and effective. His gentle touch and use of cooperage is textbook. A consummate professional, he is a man of few words, with the smarts to keep away from politics. He is walking the vineyards most of the time. It shows. The 2008 was, again, not a uniform vintage, with regional variations swinging either way. In broad strokes, solid yet low on excitement. Certain mesoclimates and addresses achieved a touch of seriousness. There is no doubt of wines improving not something than can be said about label design. Even though there are improvements, the packaging of some of today’s Greek wine is doing little justice to it’s content. This label stands apart. At first glance it reminded me of  Spanish landscapes ‘‘leaping’’ from Miles Davis’s Concierto de Aranjuez. The artist? Vassilis’s daughter, Areti: She painted Harvest when she was seven. I can see her perky-faced shot framed in her dad’s office. There is little doubt that the northern expressions of Agiorgitiko will continue to pleasantly surprise us. Beyond the senses, they tickle the intellect. Nemea is hedonistic, at this juncture Macedonia has added stature. Watch this space for more!

Purple rim. Dark, for this grape. Red berry fruit with gentle cocoa aroma. Layers of velvety tannins. Morello cherry follows up on a creamy intensity. Stony mineral on the richly-flavoured, fine-grained, dry finish. Serious stuff. Best 2012-2018.

Score: 17.5 /20

For more information please visit: www.bibliachora.gr

In all of the fragmented Greek vineyard, it is landlocked Amyndeon that boasts of the most impressive diurnal temperature variations. Recent statistics only reinforce the comparative advantage of this cooler climate. For several reasons, it is ideal for sparkling wines.

Xinomavro is an endlessly fascinating grape. It is different in warmer Naoussa, where the aromatics are more Mediterranean (tomato vine comes to mind), and in Goumenissa, with its  discreet, spicy aroma – and these are just two out of several nearby sites where this leading cultivar is to be found. Furthermore, the Xinomavro-induced aromatic and palate intensity would be overpowering for a sparkling wine. The subtlety and freshness of Amyndeon wins hand down

What is admirable is that a relative newcomer, the Dutchman Laurence Hartman, found his way around this largely uncharted, nuanced Xinomavro terroir. Thanks to a thought-through approach and the precision required for a  handcrafted Méthode traditionelle, we are also seeing the more discreet  side of this, now booming, region. The choice of focusing on 40-year-old vines contributes to a restrained, polished profile.

This Blanc de noir is a revelation. It has been taught good manners. Yet, my gut feeling is that there is still so much more to learn and receive from this, now urbanized, strong-gene peasant. For this I what I can only liken it to due to the infinite guises and name places to which this grape is capable of morphing into. I urge you to search elsewhere on this site my chronicling of the new wave of Xinomavro and blends. If you like wines that speak to heart and mind, then you may have found a new soul mate.

To date, of the 12 wineries now operating in Amyndeon, Domaine Karanika has under its belt the most convincing effort in this under-invested category. Catch early this unfolding act and, pokerfaced, glass in hand,  go ahead and surprise your friends. Serve it blind. As this going-places address grows, I expect new nuances to be introduced  to this, so far, all-black grape cuvée.  Perhaps some of the delectable 2011 vintage could undergo its secondary fermentation in magnums.

Beyond pleasure, further clues could be gleamed on the microclimate and the silt, sandy and limestone bedrock on which these vineyards sit. Laurence is a thinker; he plans ahead. Beyond a twinkle in his eye there is grit. It serves him well. This is an estate to watch. As I leave, his smiling wife Annette and a school of dogs see me off in the autumn afternoon mist. Heading west on the Egnatia Highway to under-revival Siatista for yet another Xinomavro “you-know-what”.

Pink-grey hues. Fine, small, bead mousse. Yeasty. Subtle gunflint. Hint of strawberry. Finely defined tannins. Vibrant, tangy acid. Persistent “string of pearls” beads with no sign of going flat even after 15 minutes in a fluted glass. Neat and light-footed, elegant even. From the 2009 maiden vintage. Best 2012 – 2015.

Score: 17 / 20

For more details please visit www.karanika.com

One of the attractive traits of this grape is its inherently medium red colour. There is no purple-blue anthocyanin here as in Syrah or Aghiorghitiko. Colour-wise it keeps company with Pinot Noir. Its tannic structure resembles Nebbiolo from Piemonte.

Unfortunately, a few addresses are succumbing to a makeover notion that ”darker is better”. I find it a pity that the odd bucket or two of Syrah, or poorly farmed Merlot, find their way into these wines. Yet, the crux of the problem is farming practices. Few Greek winemakers understand that, with climate change and vines overstressed by lack of water, especially during véraison, there is a risk for the muscular tannins of Xinomavro to dry out. Recent statistics show a decrease in annual rainfall on this patchwork of vineyards below Mount Vermion (2,052 m.), especially during periods when it is most needed. Moreover, only a handful of vignerons are willing to risk harvesting late, which would give this vigorous grape a chance to deliver fully ripened grapes

Ever since the remarkably aromatic and delicate 2004, I have chronicled the rise of Ghi ke Uranos(Earth and Sky). It was more than an eye-opener; it was the long-awaited next step.

With this young-vine Naoussa, Apostolos Thymiopoulos continues to set an example to this underperforming appellation of how to ripen Xinomavro. This estate has now become Naoussa’s tannin management champions. This single-vineyard wine in its maiden vintage comes from the young vines on the Ghi ke Uranos slope. Back in 2005, I took note of these, then scrawny, vines. Wine from these young vines was sold in bulk – until now. There is a lot to be said for patience: It is essential if one is to make a statement backed by deeds, rather than marketing hype.

It is for this level of commitment in safeguarding the high standards of Ghi ke Uranos (Uranos in the US) that this producer continues to earn praise. 2009 was a difficult, rain-plagued vintage, but the breeze on this slope helped out against rot, as did terroir.

Bright ruby. Upfront fruity charm. Dark cherries, freshness. Smooth texture. Seamless oak. Persistent, crystalline, elegant. Purity and breed. Serve at cellar temperature. Best 2011-2016.

Score:  17 / 20

US Importer :    www.atheneeimporters.com

US Distributor:  www.winebow.com

UK : www.thewinesociety.com

Annette no longer handles encyclopaedias and reference books. She is hands-on vigneronne and discusses their newly planted five grape varieties and the challenges in farming healthy and ripe grapes.  Laurens’s approach to wine making is like no other in the region. A horizontal basket press resembling the ones used in champagne is not his only ‘’doing it my way’’.  They have a gentle touch, with a nod towards “natural” wines. He does use minimum sulphur and so avoids all the weirdness and extremes these cult wines sometimes reach. Another attractive factor to all these handcrafted wines is the refreshingly lower alcohol levels. This one of a kind and new to me blend was the most homogeneous of their current offerings in a recent in-situ tasting.

For fragrance and texture, 30-year-old Xinomavro. Cabernet Sauvignon Bordeaux clone 330. Stawberry nose and black cherries on the palate. Balanced backbone, capturing the best of the two characterful  varieties.  Freshness of  Amyndeon’s cooler mesoclimate. At  12.6 % ABV, it almost whispers. Not short on presence. Focused. Toothsome and different. Best 2010-2014.

Score:  16.5 / 20

For more details please visit www.karanika.com

Dutch agent: www.grieksewijnen.com

While tasting this wine, a flash of memory reminded me of what a solid, uniform-quality vintage 2005 is. Even the beneficial post-harvest rains were appreciated. Weather-wise, the picture is getting far more complicated, with decreasing rainfall and extreme heat peaks. Back to this lovely new departure — Drama wine.  My  in-situ post-harvest notes to this professionally-managed estate read: Tank sample Refosco; purple blue-black colour, full bodied,  high acid, crushed fresh blueberry paste-like. What will this lead to?  This vintage is a landmark year for Domaine Costa Lazaridi for another reason, too: Michel Rolland went to work with them. He walked the vineyards extensively prior to the harvest.  Every January he comes to Adriani to prepare the blends. The wild side of aforementioned Refosco dal peduncolo rosso  was softened and fleshed out with 40% Agiorgitiko. This is clever stuff.  It is a big, gutsy wine that benefits from being served at cellar-room temperature. Carafing, too.

Floral, with ripe plums. Black cherry, mocha-choc flavours. Thickly textured. An earthy note leading on to a tannic grip with a warm spicy afterglow (14.6% ABV). A true sense of place.  Not for the faint hearted. Enjoy with spicy dishes. Best 2010-2015

Score 17/20

For more details, please visit www.domaine-lazaridi.gr

Angelos Iatridis is a man on a mission. With his redoubtable partner, farmer Makis Mavridis, they have brought a scientific approach and discipline in vine cultivation that is new to Greece. Their 21^st-century vineyards were largely first planted in 1997. All of the 65 hectares are recent, excepting a block of old Xinomavro bush vines. Here lies the Boursiquot connection. JMB was intrigued by the Amyndeo Xinomavro “DNA bank” to be found in this cooler-climate, sandy plateau. Alpha Estate was keen on showing him the ungrafted old Xinomavro. Boursiquot asked for them to dig at several vines. His findings? Well, err, it is not ungrafted. The rootstock was French in origin and had been decommissioned over 50 years ago. There is another, even more intriguing JMB find in the Greek vineyard. Look for this myth-busting discovery in the all-new forthcoming book. This time with much wider ramifications than this Amyndeo sortie.

Due to its limited production and high price (retailing at 48 Euro), many perceive that Alpha One, the iconic wine of Alpha Estate, is their top wine. Marketing wise, it is positioned so. Yet, is it? Well, with this Xinomavro Reserve, which also costs less money, the Alpha One has been eclipsed.

There are several factors other than the top-notch vintage for making this wine the star of the estate. One cannot ignore the “wisdom” of the 86-year-old bush vines. Further to the phenolically ripe tannins, there is the — bordering on the obsessive — approach to these heritage vines applied by Angelos Iatridis with his cellar technical know-how. Whatever my reservations on Iatridis’s approach to some of his wines, the results in this Xinomavro Reserve are unequivocal. Above all, I get a clearer picture of the, only now realized, potential that this star grape has on offer. The dynamics are shiver-down-the-spine stuff. This wine goes beyond being a landmark for Amyndeo. Such red wines are a step up, closing the gap to the excellent white wines that the South-Eastern Mediterranean corner has been consistently producing for over a decade now.

Very dark ruby. Multifaceted and refined, classy aroma. Smoky black fruit and strawberry. Freshly ground allspice. Sous bois. Côte de Nuits-like spicy earthiness. Mouth-filling, polished tannins. Hugely attractive tannic bite. Generous, vivacious, savoury-textured mineral finish. Best: 2011–2027.

Score: 18.5/20

For more details please visit www.alpha-estate.com

USA  www.diamondwineimporters.com

New York www.frederickwildman.com

UK  www.novumwines.com

Switzerland  www.greekwines.ch

Another northern region with tannin-management issues is Naoussa, one of the four Xinomavro playgrounds, where this great grape, particular to the north-western Macedonia, is cultivated.

The Argatia vineyards, just north of Yanakohori, are just outside the appellation boundaries. No matter. In fact, many of the farmers of this scattered and fragmented vineyard should take a closer look at what ampelographer, author and now winemaker Haroula Spinthiropoulou is doing in her organically farmed vineyards.  Yields, canopy management and carefully planned irrigation anyone can do. As she walks me through her vines, she adds, “Each plot is managed according to its own rhythm; the aim is harmony”.  I will add patience and risk taking. Xinomavro is a late ripener. It is this coaxing to get the tannic, high-acid grape phenolically ripe that marks out the handful of current top-performing Naoussa addresses.

Darker than the paler ruby red we are accustomed to from this grape. A hint of sweetness on the floral aromatics (peonies?). Spice. Coconut (American oak), not overly done, integrated sweetness. Juicy fruit. Firm but ripe tannins. A richly flavoured, austere aftertaste of refreshing acidity.  Entering a closing-down period.  All xinomavro varietals and blends benefit from carafing.  Best 2011-2021.

Score:  17.5/20

For more information please visit: www.argatia.gr

One quite never knows what Tsantali has in mind. More recently, having headhunted Panayoti Kyriakidis from Ampeloeniki (a leading consulting outfit), they appointed him as Chief Oenologist. I am closely watching what new ideas and direction this experienced technician and his team will bring to this volume-oriented wine and spirit address. The reviewed wine shows that they can do small (for them) lots of 15,000 bottles, which are worth the discovery of a bull’s-eye effort. As I have mentioned in these pages, overwhelmingly Greek CS are off-target. Made according to a French protocol, not tuned to Greek climatic farming requirements, they do not have much of a future. In the current grim financial situation, crystal-ball gazing what to replant for the future comes sharply into focus. Yet, this organic vineyard, located opposite their sprawling base in Aghios Pavlos, Chalkidiki, could not be a more enticingly no-compromise example. Soil is silty clay lying on a bedrock of limestone. My favourite pet of phenolically ripened tannins is near-perfect. Indeed, such were the seductive powers of this lucent varietal, it left me enchanted. It is also good to see one of the big players offer such characterful individuality.

Deep red. Initially ‘sweet’ nose with spice and chocolate. It opens up to earthy notes, cedar. Shoulder is covered with encrusted tannin in what the French call ‘chemise’. Ripe tannins, well-knit oak. Generous, persistent feral finish. Big and bold. Carafing recommended. Best: 2010-15.

Score: 17/20

For more details please visit www.tsantali.gr

Exclusive Greece retailer: www.wine-house.gr

Dark.  Perfumed purity. Generous backbone, oozing minerality. Refined tannins. Lush and vivid. Think of northern Rhone with Greek gutsiness.  Best 2010-2016.

Score: 17/20

For more details, please visit: www.ktima-pavlidis.gr