Greek Wine World » Macedonia

Organic Cabernet Sauvignon Chalkidiki Tsantali

admin — Wed, 12 May 2010 14:51:03 +0000

A behemoth of Greek wine, Tsantali is 12 million bottles large. You can find something of their vast range on many a remote island. In villages, even settlements, where a bakaliko (grocery store) acts as social centre. This ubiquitous giant also distils those quintessentially Greek drinks, tsipouro and ouzo.

One quite never knows what Tsantali has in mind. More recently, having headhunted Panayoti Kyriakidis from Ampeloeniki (a leading consulting outfit), they appointed him as Chief Oenologist. I am closely watching what new ideas and direction this experienced technician and his team will bring to this volume-oriented wine and spirit address. The reviewed wine shows that they can do small (for them) lots of 15,000 bottles, which are worth the discovery of a bull’s-eye effort. As I have mentioned in these pages, overwhelmingly Greek CS are off-target. Made according to a French protocol, not tuned to Greek climatic farming requirements, they do not have much of a future. In the current grim financial situation, crystal-ball gazing what to replant for the future comes sharply into focus. Yet, this organic vineyard, located opposite their sprawling base in Aghios Pavlos, Chalkidiki, could not be a more enticingly no-compromise example. Soil is silty clay lying on a bedrock of limestone. My favourite pet of phenolically ripened tannins is near-perfect. Indeed, such were the seductive powers of this lucent varietal, it left me enchanted. It is also good to see one of the big players offer such characterful individuality.

Deep red. Initially ‘sweet’ nose with spice and chocolate. It opens up to earthy notes, cedar. Shoulder is covered with encrusted tannin in what the French call ‘chemise’. Ripe tannins, well-knit oak. Generous, persistent feral finish. Big and bold. Carafing recommended. Best: 2010-15.

Score: 17/20

For more details please visit www.tsantali.gr

Exclusive Greece retailer: www.wine-house.gr

Syrah Ktima Pavlidis

admin — Thu, 11 Feb 2010 09:22:19 +0000

This relative newcomer has several aces up its sleeve. It was built on – so to speak – solid foundations in the vineyard. Nothing has been spared in winemaking kit. With the passing of every new vintage, Christophoros Pavlidis, who made his fortune in marble, granite and construction, seems en route to succeed in his lofty ambitions to join the upper echelon of leading estates. No one can underestimate the importance of the human factor in any project. The old adage ‘you are only as good as your team’ could not be more appropriate for the capable hands of Nikos Karatzas. He is far more mature than his 32 years of age. Member of the new generation of technicians who are so in tune with their vineyards. Recently, I spent time with him. Ktima Pavlidis is lucky to have him. Watch out for the video to be posted with highlights from my visit in the company of this all-round über-talented chemist-oenologist. There are other impressive wines in this going places estate: The 2009 Assyrtiko is a very convincing varietal, introducing yet another facet of this great grape. Yet, it was the 2007 Syrah that tipped the scales for me. There are several pleasant enough Greek Syrahs. Few do stand out and are carving a great future. This varietal from western Drama is one of them.

Dark. Perfumed purity. Generous backbone, oozing minerality. Refined tannins. Lush and vivid. Think of northern Rhone with Greek gutsiness. Best 2010-2016.

Score: 17/20

For more details, please visit: www.ktima-pavlidis.gr

Goumenissa Single Vineyard I Aidarinis

admin — Mon, 11 Jan 2010 14:48:00 +0000

Have not been in ages this excited for a Xinomavro blend. Christos Aidarinis, a stalwart in the Goumenissa appellation, has, with this Single Vineyard I, nailed it on the head. Life for a grape farmer is not easy in this sleepy appellation, nestled in the foothills of Mount Paiko (1,650 m.). Vintages are dodgy. Heavy rainfall during harvest time is often an issue. This was not the case in 2007. In fact, the heat wave, coupled with careful farming, coaxed the finicky Xinomavro and the ‘sister’ grape in this appellation, Negoska, into ripening evenly and fully. Other factors come into play here. The vineyard was planted in 1978, so these are arguably old vines. Furthermore, the rolling hills of Gymni Rachi, from where this wine hails, is another pearl of information on the unlocked potential of Goumenissa. A hunch: ‘Gerakona‘ is another (potentially great?) red-wine terroir. Now, a favour: May someone come up with an answer to this question: Why on earth is the smart money not quietly investing in this unrealised-potential patch of Xinomavro-Negoska tapestry?
Fragrant, not unlike what only great Burgundy and Barolo can be. Hide and seek, as both grapes feed off and complement each other. Crunchy red fruit alternating with sous bois earthiness. Mid-palate is chock-a-block of fine-grained tannins. Tasty freshness on the finish. Exemplary winemaking and gentle use of oak. Keeps unfolding in the glass. Hallmarked by terroir and finesse. Best 2010-2015.
Score: 17/20
E-mail: aidarini@otenet.gr

Moscato Methexis Domaine Kosta Lazaridi 40% ABV

admin — Wed, 02 Dec 2009 09:16:13 +0000

A highlight of my autumn vineyard tour was time spent with distiller Giorgos Zirnovalis. He was generous in sharing his insight while going about his, as he put it, ‘usual for this time of year 15-hour days’. Considered as one of the best in his profession, he remains a humble person. Professional satisfaction was obvious but no ego. I came away with a sense that he is part flair and part discipline. Some pride too. Of the many grapes he distils, he rates Sauvignon Blanc especially high. Such praise for SB was new to me. But then, mostly due to my teaching commitments, I do not spend as much time as I would like with distillers. To my palate, for several reasons, the Moscato stood apart. The difference to tsipouro (grappa) is that this Moscato is the distillation of only grape berries minus stems. How does it differ? Well, a fiery vinous element, found in many a tsipouro, is not part of the equation. A fuller, more gentle character comes through. There are close to 3,000 Muscat variations. This grape spirit is made from the Muscat of Alexandria. Methexis? From the classical theatre: methexis is participation.

Crystal clear. Floral. Lemon blossom. Spicy. Intensely flavoured, round, grapey mid-palate. Clean, textured finish. Initial lemon zestiness leading to rose petal tea-like softness. Aftertaste of Gewurztraminer. Lightly chilled enhances the viscous smooth richness.
Score: 17.5/20
For more information, please visit: www.domaine-lazaridi.gr
US importers
California: www.greekfoodandwine.com
All other States: www.nestorimports.com

Ovilos Biblia Chora Estate

admin — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 09:06:26 +0000

With few exceptions, the majority of Greek Cabernet Sauvignon efforts are off the mark. Most are planted in the wrong place (arid hotter regions) and not farmed appropriately to achieve balanced ripe grapes. The wines are charmless. Mostly, a boatload of astringent green drying tannins. Hardly appealing stuff. On the other hand, there are microclimates and know-how to produce good, perhaps exceptional, varietal wine from this ubiquitous grape.

CS does not even make it to the top 3 shortlist of my favourite red grape varieties. So, during my autumn month-long scouting in the vineyards, I was pleasantly shocked to find something that appealed in equal measures to mind and heart. So much so, that one of those rare lapses of professional discipline occurred – the opposite to spitting out.

Vassilis Tsaktsarlis may have a hard-to-pronounce surname, but his soft touch, apparent in all of his wines, represents one of the towering efforts in Greek wines. A Bordeaux graduate, this 42-year-old is a partner, with Vangelis Gerovassiliou, of the eponymous estate and the vineyard-focused oenologist at Biblia Chora. A man of few words. Incisive comment. Free of hype. Actually, as refreshing as the wines he makes.

Dark. Classic nose of cassis and minerality. Piquant Cabernet Sauvignon fruit. Depth. Grippy stylish tannins complemented by tight-woven acidity. Great balance. Oozing elegance on the long finish. Whispering presence and staying power. Stylistically, this is the closest the northern Aegean shoreline has so far got to… St Estephe! A star in the making. Best 2010-2020.

Score: 18/20

For more details please visit: www.bibliachora.gr

Alpha Estate Alpha 1 Tannat

admin — Thu, 13 Aug 2009 08:45:48 +0000

Fifteen years ago, Amyndeon was a no man’s land. It has now emerged as an exciting forward-looking region. Surrounded by mountains, it experiences the largest swing in diurnal temperatures. During the growing season, April to September, nights are cool (+10° C), highs rarely rise above +31° C.

Of all the non-Greek red grapes planted in this important 65-hectare estate, Syrah, Montepulciano and Tannat have excelled. They have adapted to such a degree that no one, including here, could ever imagine such impressive wines.

The Alpha 1 grape choice changes yearly. It is either a varietal wine or a blend. In essence, it is the top performing grape(s) of the vintage. It is a halo wine, sold at double the price of the excellent flagship Alpha Estate, a Syrah, Xinomavro and Merlot blend. If reductive aromas and rustic tannins is your experience with Tannat, well, this newcomer to Greece is a rather different, tamed, beast. There is a rarely achieved phenolic ripeness, balance, even polish here. Not the usual descriptors one associates with this love-it-or-leave-it tannic grape. The 2006 vintage was a long, protracted affair. Mustering one of the lowest recorded(1420) degree days. The wine spent 18 months in Allier Bertrange medium-toasted new oak casks at 200% (9+9). The wine is bottled unfiltered.

Opaque. Pharmaceutical nose with camphor dominating. Vinosity, chocolate/cocoa powder. Compact. Enveloped with finesse on the outside with a creamy core. Tastey, ripe tannins. Well balanced and round. Lingering finish. Suprisingly complex. Best 2009-2016.

Score: 18/20

For more information, please visit www.alpha-estate.com

Ghi ke Uranos

admin — Wed, 20 May 2009 12:18:27 +0000

Have for days been studying a geological map of Naoussa: There is a great variation of soil type. Not all are suitable for producing fine wine. The heavier types produce mediocrities. A few are a terroir scout’s dream. There are slivers of limestone bedrock and volcanic soils which contribute to making wines of real class. Then, there are microclimate nuances. Such as the cooling winds that blow down from Mount Vermio. I revert to near-endless thumbing through my note books. Gleaming a word here, a word there, trying to sketch one of nature’s fascinating patchworks. Occasionally, right there, staring you in your face, that great French term: terroir! Several Naoussa place names, such as Gastra, Paliokalia, Roudina, spring to mind. Each one of them distinctly different. As of 2004 a worthy new addition has emerged.

Apostolos Thimiopoulos’ vineyards are located at Trilofos. At the very southern tip of the appellation of Naoussa. He has several formidable aces up his sleeve. Among them, terroir and his father. The former came with owning vineyards on some of the best suited aforementioned soil types. Sterghios, the energetic father, has been described to me by technicians as Naoussas’ top farmer. In the emotion-driven culture from which today’s Greece often suffers, such professional praise is rare indeed. And there is proof of this accolade not being empty words. Thimiopoulos’ ever vigilant pro-active stance in their vineyards during the unusually hot and dry 2007 conditions has paid off handsomely.

Deeper garnet than in any other vintage. At 14.3 ABV, checking in near identical to the cooler and wetter 2006. Hard to believe that it is not higher. Architecturally the two could not be further apart. The purity of fruit and sheer freshness just shines through all the strong earthy, spicy notes. It powers to a sprinting finish. Xinomavro’s usually hard tannins are, yet again, coaxed to bring out the pretty side of this high-acid grape’s inimitable character. Depth with finesse. With so much stuffing, it won’t start delivering on some of its early promise and uniqueness before winter 2010. Do not be afraid to carafe it. If you can hold out, best from 2011-2018.

Score: 18.5/20

US Distributor (where the label is Uranos):www.winebow.com
France agent email: Oenos.fpl@free.fr

Argatia

admin — Sat, 16 May 2009 08:17:38 +0000

Assyrtiko originates in Santorini. It is now grown, with great success, on other Aegean islands, such as Paros, more recently on Tinos. It is different on the mainland, gentler, of less in your face mineral intensity. Measurable acreage is to be found also in Eastern, Central and now Western Macedonia, where Argatia, the recently established vineyards and winery, is located.
Haroula Spinthiropoulou wears many hats. Ampelographer and researcher. Active in viticultural consulting services and author. In establishing with her husband, Panayiotis Georgiadis, this new, tiny but ambitious venture, she now says, “I must now learn how to make wine.” Her sounding board for technical matters is Vassilis Marinos, Head of the successful Thessaloniki based Ampelooeniki Laboratory and Consulting Services.
Her choice of white grapes speaks volumes. Assyrtiko, the fashionable at the moment Malagousia and the under-appreciated Athiri. Some of you may be bored (count me in on this) with just another Assyrtiko and Co blend. Yet, this wine is so different. It goes beyond the all Greek experience. There is a statement here. A fact foreign judges at the recently held 9th Thessaloniki International Wine Competition (seewww.wineroads.gr) were quick to pick up on. Over lunch it was one of their favourites. Sales excluding, could a wine producer wish for a higher endorsement?

Intense nose of green tea and summer herbs. Fat, alternating with sappy flavours. Weight and structure. Mouth filling tasty extract. Rich, leesy, lively aftertaste with a botanical hint of thyme. Though still tight, there is much going on here. A novelty for the region. With its attractive (Assyrtiko derived) phenolic bite very much a food wine. Luke-warm fava purée, drenched in olive oil, adorned with crisp caper leaves. Slowly cooked spit roasted lamb. Mmm…

Score: 17/20

For more information, please visit www.argatia.gr
Agent for Greece www.aioloswines.gr

To Dakri tou Pefkou 2008 Stelios Kechris & Daughters

admin — Sat, 18 Apr 2009 14:16:48 +0000

On the last day of the 9th Thessaloniki International Wine Competition (www.wineroads.gr) my Canadian friend and co-judge Tony Aspler asked me to taste a retsina. Luckily, one of the finest addresses of modern made, far from lacklustre retsina is close by. There are dozens of cheaper labels on the market. None though as intriguing and different as To Dakri tou Pefkou (the tear of the pine).
So, before going to lunch, we tasted it. His comment? “It is… elegant.” That it is. There is more to this upmarket handcrafted retsina. Bear with me putting things into context. Retsina (resinated wine) is usually made with the Savatiano grape. Its historic homeland is around Athens, in the villages of Markopoulo and Spata, not far from the airport. Thessaloniki is another retsina town, mainly due to the huge Malamatina concern. Very little is actually made elsewhere. How is it made? In short, after fermentation kicks off in your stainless steel tank, one adds the pine resin. Presto! your menthol-like freshness. You either love it or cannot stand it. There is opinion but no dogma in these pages. No one is asking to like our heritage. To me retsina is above all a summer wine. Alfresco dining. Barefoot, twirling tows in sand or lukewarm, moist pebbles. It makes a great spritzer (long glass, ice and soda). Grilled sardines? Here the usually ultra-food friendly Chardonnay fails the test. Frankly, retsina does not often feature on my winter shortlists. Yet, one has to remain open minded. On a whim and with rather high curiosity stakes, I recently gambled by pairing it with a medium-hot perfumed curry. Delicious. It works a lot better than lager beer.
Back to this top-end vintage-dated resinated wine. Two influential factors have been changed from the above outlined recipe. The grape. Upgraded, if you wish, to Assyrtiko. Noted for its structure, mineral sympathies and high acidity. It is then fermented, not in stainless steel tanks, in which most good commercial large-volume retsina is now made. Our Dakri (Tear) is fermented in new oak casks. After fermentation has ceased, it is left on its fine lees for some time. Just as aspiring to greatness Chardonnays, the lees are stirred to broaden flavour. So this is Kechris winning recipe: Start with the most striking white grape of the eastern Mediterranean. Add Halepensis pine resin, and, after fermentation has run its course, let autolysis, oak and nature to do the rest.
Its aroma is delicate. Not your heavy-handed, well, turpentine burst of a coma-inducing resin mega dosage. In fact, its aroma (almost) behaves like any other fine wine. Nuanced, constantly changing. A whiff of lavender. A broad, layered spectrum of fascinating flavours. Freshly grated ginger and Chios mastic. Crisp, clean, lemony tasting, with persistence on the finish. Let’s face it, no other wine jolts your senses like good retsina. Serve chilled but not cold. Otherwise you will miss out on most of the action. The best is yet to come. Does not wine have the last word? Go ahead and astonish yourself – enjoy it again in intervals of 6, 12, even 18 months. Nature’s greatness is infinitely instructive. It is humbling, too.
How did this wine do in the competition? It won a Gold medal. Three years ago, it scooped up ‘Double Gold,’ which is the most coveted gong of all. This time, neither Tony or I judged retsina. There is always next year.

Score: 17.5/20

www.kechri.gr
email: info@kechri.gr

Diaporos Kir Yianni

admin — Fri, 23 Jan 2009 07:10:41 +0000

After an acrimonious split with his brother Konstantinos in 1996, Yiannis Boutaris named this Naoussa estate, which he first planted in the late 1960’s, Kir Yianni. Yiannis has now gone into politics.

More importantly, Kir Yianni is now in the hands of his eldest son Stelios. He has sought to introduce some stability and much needed changes. He has implemented an extensive re-planting program, as the inherited Xinomavro vines had for years been working overtime (see large yields) to cater for the negociant needs of Boutari Naoussa Grande Reserve. Remember that old chestnut?

Diaporos is a new cuvee, launched in spring 2008 with much noise at a lavish event at the Zappeion Hall in Athens. So what is all the hoopla about? Is it the breakthrough wine it is claimed to be? Though winemaking is now more modern at the estate, this wine, other than the claimed blend of Xinomavro 87% and Syrah 13%, is stylistically nothing new per se. Contradictory? Bear with me: If all the choices of clones, rootstock and new farming practice are correct, we will not know for quite some time into what direction Stelios and his team of consultants have steered this, now in transition, estate. Such is nature’s pace that it will be years before the new vines settle, pick up age and show how good the anticipated modern profile really is.

One-dimensional kirsch – like nose-twitching spirit. Gamey. Slowly blossoming into spice and some ’sweetness’. Harsh raw ‘green’ tannins. Bretty. The label states 14.5% ABV, though with no fruit on the palate to pad it out it tastes much higher. Finishes very hot. No terroir imprint which can shine here. The 1994 Pinot Noir mirrored it with laser-like accuracy. In its maiden vintage, Diaporos is another out of sync, rustic Kir Yianni. Not the step forward I would have liked to report.

Score: 14.5/20

For more details see: www.kiryianni.gr

Greece distributor: www.karoulias.gr