Macedonia | Greek Wine World

2007
Argatia Xinomavro

The 2007 vintage was not uniform in all regions. Only the best-farmed sites produced very good wines; a few, even great. The lack of spring rainfall and periodic heatwaves left many vineyards with water-stressed vines. A Syrah in Drama was not irrigated in July, despite the obvious signals, and is so far the most blunted varietal I have recently come across. Does anyone tell them about these just unattractive drying tannins?

Another northern region with tannin-management issues is Naoussa, one of the four Xinomavro playgrounds, where this great grape, particular to the north-western Macedonia, is cultivated.

The Argatia vineyards, just north of Yanakohori, are just outside the appellation boundaries. No matter. In fact, many of the farmers of this scattered and fragmented vineyard should take a closer look at what ampelographer, author and now winemaker Haroula Spinthiropoulou is doing in her organically farmed vineyards. Yields, canopy management and carefully planned irrigation anyone can do. As she walks me through her vines, she adds, “Each plot is managed according to its own rhythm; the aim is harmony”. I will add patience and risk taking. Xinomavro is a late ripener. It is this coaxing to get the tannic, high-acid grape phenolically ripe that marks out the handful of current top-performing Naoussa addresses.

Darker than the paler ruby red we are accustomed to from this grape. A hint of sweetness on the floral aromatics (peonies?). Spice. Coconut (American oak), not overly done, integrated sweetness. Juicy fruit. Firm but ripe tannins. A richly flavoured, austere aftertaste of refreshing acidity. Entering a closing-down period. All xinomavro varietals and blends benefit from carafing. Best 2011-2021.

Score: 17.5/20

For more information please visit: www.argatia.gr

20.09.2010

2006
Organic Cabernet Sauvignon Chalkidiki Tsantali

A behemoth of Greek wine, Tsantali is 12 million bottles large. You can find something of their vast range on many a remote island. In villages, even settlements, where a bakaliko (grocery store) acts as social centre. This ubiquitous giant also distils those quintessentially Greek drinks, tsipouro and ouzo.

One quite never knows what Tsantali has in mind. More recently, having headhunted Panayoti Kyriakidis from Ampeloeniki (a leading consulting outfit), they appointed him as Chief Oenologist. I am closely watching what new ideas and direction this experienced technician and his team will bring to this volume-oriented wine and spirit address. The reviewed wine shows that they can do small (for them) lots of 15,000 bottles, which are worth the discovery of a bull’s-eye effort. As I have mentioned in these pages, overwhelmingly Greek CS are off-target. Made according to a French protocol, not tuned to Greek climatic farming requirements, they do not have much of a future. In the current grim financial situation, crystal-ball gazing what to replant for the future comes sharply into focus. Yet, this organic vineyard, located opposite their sprawling base in Aghios Pavlos, Chalkidiki, could not be a more enticingly no-compromise example. Soil is silty clay lying on a bedrock of limestone. My favourite pet of phenolically ripened tannins is near-perfect. Indeed, such were the seductive powers of this lucent varietal, it left me enchanted. It is also good to see one of the big players offer such characterful individuality.

Deep red. Initially ‘sweet’ nose with spice and chocolate. It opens up to earthy notes, cedar. Shoulder is covered with encrusted tannin in what the French call ‘chemise’. Ripe tannins, well-knit oak. Generous, persistent feral finish. Big and bold. Carafing recommended. Best: 2010-15.

Score: 17/20

For more details please visit www.tsantali.gr

Exclusive Greece retailer: www.wine-house.gr

12.05.2010

2007
Syrah Ktima Pavlidis

syrah This relative newcomer has several aces up its sleeve. It was built on – so to speak – solid foundations in the vineyard. Nothing has been spared in winemaking kit. With the passing of every new vintage, Christophoros Pavlidis, who made his fortune in marble, granite and construction, seems en route to succeed in his lofty ambitions to join the upper echelon of leading estates. No one can underestimate the importance of the human factor in any project. The old adage ‘you are only as good as your team’ could not be more appropriate for the capable hands of Nikos Karatzas. He is far more mature than his 32 years of age. Member of the new generation of technicians who are so in tune with their vineyards. Recently, I spent time with him. Ktima Pavlidis is lucky to have him. Watch out for the video to be posted with highlights from my visit in the company of this all-round über-talented chemist-oenologist. There are other impressive wines in this going places estate: The 2009 Assyrtiko is a very convincing varietal, introducing yet another facet of this great grape. Yet, it was the 2007 Syrah that tipped the scales for me. There are several pleasant enough Greek Syrahs. Few do stand out and are carving a great future. This varietal from western Drama is one of them.

Dark. Perfumed purity. Generous backbone, oozing minerality. Refined tannins. Lush and vivid. Think of northern Rhone with Greek gutsiness. Best 2010-2016.

Score: 17/20

For more details, please visit: www.ktima-pavlidis.gr

11.02.2010

Wine geography