Tasting | Greek Wine World

2009
Aidani Estate Argyros

Assyrtiko-based Santorini, is a complex, full-throttle, mineralic vin de terroir. One thing it is not is an aperitif wine. Yet, in the numerous white grapes found in the vineyard, the last of the 3 As (Athiri, Assyrtiko and Aidani) is the most aromatic. Very little of it is grown on the island, it is highly prized, especially sought to brighten up the aromatic profile of the expensive, sweet, sun-dried Vinsanto. Aidani commands Euro 1.45 per kg. versus Assyrtiko’s Euro 1.05 kg. (prices for the 2009 vintage). Approaching harvest, there is much café-lobbying and vivid mobile-phone bidding by the now 13 wineries on this one-of-a-kind, historic island vineyard.

The island’s Canava with the oldest and finest Vinsanto reserves is the third-generation and fourth-generation father Yannis and son Mattheos Argyros. 10 years ago, they planted 1.2 hectares of Aidani in Episkopi Gonias, in the time-honoured and unique to this island basket-shaped pruning. Most of their Aidani ends up in the class-leading Vinsanto. As of 2005, a limited quantity is bottled as a varietal. As chronicled in my 2009 vintage report (see under Articles), the unusually cooler summer and harvest conditions played handsomely into enhancing the aromatic subtleties of this Cycladic-island rarity. Yannis Argyros adds, “We were not looking to add another label (there are 10) but wanted to show this as a varietal. To date, the 2009 is the most complete vintage.” Another factor for suggesting this wine as a sipping wine is the lower alcohol of 12.5% ABV, approximately one degree less than Assyrtiko-based wines. It is longer lived than the fragile Athiri (see my recent posting on the exceptional Santo Wines example). At this level, this Aidani will keep its vibrancy for up to two years.

Pale yellow-green tints. Fragrant. Lemon blossom with a smokey mineral background. Textured. Richly flavoured. Crisp bone-dry bracing pyritic finish. A great balancing act, combining the floral aromatics and the unmistakable pronounced terroir. Classy and stylish. A different facet of this never a dull terroir.

Score: 17.5/20

For more details please visit www.estate-argyros.com

20.04.2010

2009
Athiri Santo Wines

One never knows what Santorini’s volcanic embrace holds. During a five-day visit, with tastings at nine wineries, the most unexpected wine was the Athiri produced by Santo Wines (the Cooperative). In this instance, the saying ‘wine has the last word’ could not hold more true.

Historians tell us Athiri has been in the southern Aegean islands since classical times. For years, my textbook example has been Athiri found amongst pine forests and stony slopes on Mount Ebonas, on southern Rhodes. Athiri on Santorini is part of the vineyard mix. Placed between the bold-tasting Assyrtiko and the softer, fragrant Aidani. Athiri does not have an easy life here. It is prone to rot. The summer maritime humidity more often does take its toll. Nevertheless, in recent memory, the generally delicate Athiri has had a chance to shine on its own here. The 2009 Greek vintage was difficult. (Look for my vintage report under Articles).

Santo Wines have been trying hard to raise their game. Oenologist Nikos Varvarigos has both the vision and tools to commit considerable resources on this blue-chip, demanding terroir. There is marked improvement throughout their range. Light years away from their past mediocrities I first experienced in the 1990s. Residual sugar and other off-the-mark, directionless styles.

During tasting with the reserved Nikos Varvarigos in what must be one of the most sublime views in the world, overlooking the Caldera and the youngest volcanic island of Nea Kameni, the 2009 Athiri quietly grabbed my attention. It was a revelation. This limited release, all of 3,000 bottles, sold only at the cellar door, is the near-perfect spring-summer sipping wine. It does not have the staying power of the Assyrtiko-based Santorinis. It will hold through autumn. As my turbo-propped plane swooped up into the cloudy sky, I could not stop wondering how such frail beauty could be born in such a hostile, windswept ecosystem. Ditto for a certain saying on wine.
Skin contact, resulting in white flowers, honeysuckle. Faint minerality. Soft, juicy, layered mineral persistence. Subtle, long finish. Digestive and refreshing. Elegant. Hugely surprising. A rare treat.

Score: 16.5/20

For more details, please visit: www.santowines.gr

29.03.2010

2006
Nemea Mitravelas Estate

This centenarian negociant, vineyard owner and, more recently, bottler is one of Nemea’s top addresses. There are no secrets to their success. Intimate knowledge of the valley-floor best-draining name places. Equally at home with which hillside performs best in a given vintage. Their long-established contacts with some of the best farmers add to a considerable deck of cards. Managing all this is Kostas Mitravelas, a straight-talking and low-key member of Nemea’s younger generation of historic wine families. The oenologist Gregory Vrettos, whose dark handsome good looks would not be out of place in an Armani advertisement, is another asset to this going places estate. Behind his boyish charm lies one of the better talents to graduate from the Athens University. This busy 26-year-old also manages to find time to run a full-time agricultural laboratory in his home town of Thiva. Vrettos also handles the estate’s exports and travels extensively to open new markets. The year 2006 was a pretty vintage in Nemea. Most of the old-vine Aghiorghitiko was safely picked before the last 20% of the harvest was hit by heavy rains.
Medium dark. Blue rim. Broadly fruited. Black cherries. Round palate with melt-in-mouth suave tannins. Succulent supple finish. Still more to come. Could not be more appellation-true. If you are new to the elegant charms of Nemea, this is one of the best introductions to old-vine (+35-year-old bush vines) examples now on the scene. Best 2010-2015.

Score: 17.5/20

See review of another wine by this Estate: Kokkino se Mavro

For more details, please visit: www.mitravelas.com
Greece distributor: www.cavahalari.gr
UK: www.bibendum-wine.co.uk

10.03.2010

Wine geography