There are oceans of bland Savatiano, even poor ones. Self styled Greek wine cognoscenti turn up their noses to the potential of this misunderstood grape. In fact, the most widely planted cultivar in Greece. Perfectly adapted to the arid and hotter regions it is found in. Not all wines are born equal. Experience has shown that in any given vineyard I have ever visited there are always exceptions. My most recent experience with Sylvain Fadat’s old vine (unfiltered) Carignane. As they in Corfiot dialect ‘nobile paesante’.

Third generation farmer and winemaker Vassilis Papagiannakos has much to be proud of. His energy efficient winery, and a first in Greece, could not have been better timed. Made of stone, steel and ultra violet protective glass with an ingenious pro-active management of natural wind flow and venetian blinds are some of it’s several features that help reduce energy costs.

To my knowledge, one of the most dedicated consulting oenologists whose mission is to showcase indigenous grape varieties is Yiorgos Anagnostopoulos. He does have a wider grasp than most of his fellow professionals on scores of lesser known grapes like the Ionian island specialty Vardea for example. Proof? The dramatic turnaround in the handful of wineries he consults to. I have been tracking for years his endeavours in other far flung island vineyards such as Cephalonia and Paros.It is an impressive record.

There is no shortage of old vines in Attica. Further to his own vineyards, Vassilis does know his way around the best farmed sites. With the current climate change he sources 80% dry farmed 40 year-old vines. The balance is from drip irrigated younger + 25 year old vineyards.

These two non egocentric characters are refreshingly open minded. This healthy attitude brings good team work. All this does contributes to this eye popping wine as one of the finest of class. Retailing at Euro 6 per bottle, it is a strong candidate in vying for top spot recession proof dry white on the market. Next time you entertain serve this wine in a carafe. I did, over Xmass, to friends, who were waxing lyrical for this ‘un-oaked Greek… chardonnay! ‘

Attractive green-pale yellow crystalline colour. A light but insistent nose with textbook ’seve’ . Mouth filling richness, initial depth, moving onto a gently skin derived tannic presence. Balanced if quirky flavoured crisp finish. Personality with a strong sence of place.

Lastly, a favour. Not a word to the…cognoscenti.

Score: 16,5/20

For more information please log on:www.papagiannakos.gr

6.03.2009

• Thrace
• Macedonia
• Epiros
• Thessalia
• Sterea Ellada
• Peloponnese
• Aegean Islands
• Ionian Islands
• Crete