2010
Melías Domaine Papagiannakos

Within eye distance of Athens International Airport one sees thousands of acres in vine. This is, par excellence, white wine country, planted to the Savatiano grape.

More recently, the aromatic Malagousia grape has also been grown in this ”sea” of Savatiano vineyards. Hailing from north-western Central Greece, this fashionable aromatic grape seems to have adapted well in its new limestone-rich home.

In its 21st century incarnation, the Papagiannakos winery has garnered praise in architecture magazines. It has also picked up several awards for its energy-efficient design. In a roundabout way, this new dessert wine has much in common with its ancestors in these vineyards. Malagousia, is the Greek vineyard’s less oily answer to Viognier. In Attica’s long-standing farming traditions, out of thrifty necessity, locals maximized the vine’s offerings through resourcefulness. In late spring/early summer, vert jus from unripe green grapes was used as an alternative to lemon juice. During harvest, grape must was used as natural sweetener to bake biscuits named mousto- (must) kouloura. A dash of cinnamon et voilà: healthy energy-packing carbohydrates. The fine lees were used in baking pork. Lees and grape pips were used as a protective rind in cheese-making. Nothing went to waste.

Topping this rather long list of uses is “vrasto” (boiled) to make sweet wine; some of it served sacramental purposes and some as a handy pick-me-up during winter pruning.  There was a social aspect in partaking at Xmas, or drinking by the fireplace.  Vrasto is the method that 3rd-generation winemaker Vassilis Papagiannakos has revived for this maiden vintage of Melías: He starts with boiling approximately 40% of the desired final quantity of wine with Malagousia grape must. He then adds successive doses of the live fermenting grape must. Eventually, this golden-coloured nectar ends up with 13% ABV. Natural sugar reaches 120 gr./l. Balance in such a rich wine comes from 6.9 gr./l. of acidity (in tartaric). The uncluttered label is elegant, not unlike the liquid itself, in a useful 500 ml. clear bottle. Who says Attican wines are boring?

Honeycomb waxiness, acacia-honey aroma. Smokey. Ripe pineapple. Textured cedrat on the medium-length, layered finish. Fine balance. Satisfying. Drink 2011- 2016.

Score: 17.5 / 20

For more details please visit: www.papagiannakos.gr

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29.09.2011


Tsipouro Zacharias 42% Vol

Winter came late. Many higher-altitude vineyards have had repeated snowfall.  Ski resorts will stay open until mid-April. Rain has been abundant. Brooks and rivers are flowing with water. The odd early wild-flower patch of white, light purple, or yellow is to be seen. Some Irish-like green. Nature is gearing up for the new vintage.

I am back in Boeotia, scouting unexplored ground.  The Savatiano at Mount Cithaeron from the Arbëresh village of Kriekouki  is impressive. Smart money should source wine from here for the financial crisis now gripping the country. In the last quarter of 2010, the Greek economy contracted at unprecedented levels. Financial analysts expect 2011 to be the worse in the last 60 years. What is obvious is the lack of a plan in place to navigate these difficult times. I am digressing.

The term tsipouro (grappa) is hardly doing any marketing favours to dozens of distilleries making these clear, grape-based spirits. Perhaps a simpler, easier to the ear word would be of help for export-minded  addresses.  Despite the economic gloom, tsipouro is becoming the winter drink of choice for the 20- and 30-somethings.  Nikos Zacharias, of Ktima Mousson in Askre, is one of the most astute oenologists and distillers I have met. His worldly outlook on European- and  Greek-market issues makes him a pleasure to listen and talk with. Lost in mist amidst the snow falling on nearby Mount Helicon, I entered  their tasting room in Askre.  A cracking fireplace. A cloudy tank sample of 2010 Savatiano appears. It reconfirms  Askre’s  terroir. My attention turns elsewhere, as the reviewed tsipouro takes centre stage. Positive conversation.  Time flew. If you go looking for the Zacharias distillery, make sure you head for Petra Boeotias and not Askre, where vineyards and winery are to be found.

The still is Italian, manufactured by Gadalpe. Each batch takes  5.5 to 6 hours of distilling. All grapes are sourced from low-yielding vines from the Valley of Muses. (See Tasting note of Samartzis Dyo Potamia ). Seven varieties:  Assyrtiko, Savatiano, Roditis, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and the local red -skinned oddity Mouchtaro.

Clear. Complex aromatics.  Bright fruit leading into a textbook pomace character. Richly flavoured. Persistent grapey long spicy finish.  A stand-out, sophisticated  tsipouro. Chill before serving. Tastes great neat, or with ice cubes and a splash of water, served in a tube-like tsipouro glass.

Score:  17 / 20

For more information please visit www.ktimamouson.gr

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21.03.2011


2010
Dyo Potamia [Two Rivers] Samartzis

Discovering two terroirs within the same year is a treat. Thebes and the nearby hillsides were on my shortlist of new scouting grounds. Even for this traveller, I never expected to stumble on such an important find. Yet again a fascinating puzzle has landed on my desk.

Kontoura is  a synonym for the grape Savatiano. In these hills it goes by the former name. There is a flurry of emails to technicians, who to my surprise had never been to the Valley of Muses, a history-rich valley lying 60 kilometres east of Delphi.  In the village of Askri, farmhands and old boys seeing the days out in the cafes are being asked to help out. What plots were planted when?  What nursery supplied the vines? Clones? Are we looking at Kanellatos, or the highly thought of Perachoritis? Or something entirely out of time and place, thus new to all of us?  Will keep you abreast of findings.

This puzzle started while tasting, from tank, the 2010 Kontoura at the Samartzis spotless and tidy winery. Each tank had such a clear imprint of place! Expressed in fruit, textured, with the sappiness often found in quality Kontoura, a tasty acidity, glycerol-based fat. As true terroir, this wine slowly reveals itself in a subtle language.  There was something beyond the 380 to 420 m. altitude and the lowest yields  I have ever encountered (800-900 kg. per 1000 sq. m.) for this usually overcropped grape. The microclimate of this valley in the shadow of Mount Helicon on the northern edge of the Mount Parnassus massif (2457 m. / 8061 ft), is the real deal. There is still more ground to cover. Soon off, back on the wine routes for springtime adventures. Twelve years ago, there was a memorable Savatiano at what was then the Coop of Thebes. It was sourced from Mount Cithaeron. See you there.

Floral, melon. Rich, bold and silky. Sappy core. Gravel minerality. Layered. Texture and creaminess. Focused. Terroir shines. Raises the bar. From all the known indigenous grapes none is more food versatile.

Score: 16.5/20

For more information, please visit: www.samartziswines.gr

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21.02.2011