Greek Wine World » Thessalia

Tsipouro Thessalias Tsilili 41% ABV

admin — Mon, 16 Aug 2010 08:36:57 +0000

As I drove out of the parking at the Raxa-based distillery, near Trikala, Makis Tsililis’s parting words were: “Until the age of 12 I looked after my father’s sheep.” Over the course of a long-planned two-day visit, I came to appreciate this guy, one of two brothers, and their success story.

The wiry Makis (55) is refreshingly down to earth and candid about his vineyards and wine shortcomings. “We focused during the past 20 years on building the Tsilili (tsipouro) brand. We now have to sort out our vineyards and winemaking.” A breath of fresh air. It has been ages since I had last been subjected to never-ending “inventive” vintner tales.

While being driven around the various vineyard sites, I came to appreciate Makis’s knowledge of local geology and profound understanding of nature. Equally impressive was his grasp of the sub-cultures of the Karagouni, Hasiotes (himself one) and Vlachs, which is part of the diverse human mosaic of today’s Greece. Speaking of origins, mine are Arberesh. All in all, it a was an enriching fact-finding mission. Thanks to Makis being a great guide, this previously little-known to me part of the western Thessaly plain has now been “sketched”. According to a paper recently sent to me, geologists have recently discovered (near Hasiote country) granitic rocks dating some 700 million years. So far thought to be the oldest in Greece. This is already on my next vineyard trip action list.

After studying chemistry, Makis and his elder brother Kostas, who manages sales in Athens, started distilling Muscat of Hamburg, of which there are 2.000 hectares. How did this lightly aromatic grape come to dominate the Thessaly plain? In 1934, a disastrous frost left thousands of farmers with a loss of an important source of revenue. State agronomists recommended planting high-yielding MOH. 70 odd years later, the Thessaly plain, with a reported 3.000 stills, is the nation’s unofficial tsipouro capital, and the Tsililis Brothers have become one of the leading tsipouro producers. Makis has another reason to be proud: His daughter Ioanna, a Bordeaux graduate, recently joined the family firm.

Clear. Very clean, delicate, muscat aroma – reminiscent of flowering vines. Finely balanced, grapey spirit offset by a creamy textured, assertive yet not aggressive finish. Charms with a spicy finish. Re-confirming that lower-ranking grapes make worthy distillates.

Score: 17/20

For more details please visit: www.tsililis.gr

Rapsani Dougos

admin — Wed, 24 Feb 2010 16:24:01 +0000

‘Sense of place’ is an overused cliché. Yet, this Rapsani, from the tiny artisan Dougos vineyards and winery is SOP personified. From a clutch of recently tasted Xinomavro-based blends, this wine had such a clear geographic imprint. It filled me with joy and helped in nailing another little flag in the terroir wine map I have for years been deciphering. Louisa and Thanos Dougos, the energetic sister-and-brother team, are making their mark with yet another characterful red wine. Their white wines are idiosyncratic but that is another altogether different story. It is this Rapsani of which I urge you to get hold of a few bottles to cellar for several years. They will reward you. It is a blend of Kapsala and Tourtoura vineyards. These north-east facing plateaus (550-650 m.), with commanding views over the Thermaikos Gulf, are nestled on the foothills of Mount Olympus. Having recently re-visited these two name places, it reminded me of what exciting wines can be made in the right hands in this region, once prominent and historic for its wines. They may not have had oenologist degrees back in the 19th century. Yet, empirically they fully understood how nature ‘helped’ make good wine if the vineyards were located off the hotter and heavier valley-floor soils and on well-drained, cooler hillsides. If you plan to plant a vineyard then head for the local café, where the old boys will be more than willing to show you the – now mostly abandoned – better sites.

Organic. 60% Xinomavro, 30% Krasato, 10% Stavroto. Flattering nose of tar, warm-fruited, earthy, oriental spice. It keeps evolving to a Pinot Noir-like ‘sweetness’. Firm, though ripe, tannic backbone. Umami-like meatiness. Old vine concentration. Savoury finish brimming with mountain freshness. Carafing recommended. Best 2011 -2017.

Score: 17.5/20

For more details please visit: www.dougos.gr

Limniona Zafeirakis

admin — Wed, 15 Apr 2009 07:12:58 +0000

I have been ‘looking at’ several dark horses from the lesser-known indigenous red varieties. There are some truly unusual and different wines in the works. Now that the so called heritage vines are increasingly coming into the fray (an Australian Assyrtiko is on it’s way), who knows what may catch on and create a worthy following. So, back to the ‘new’ reds: None impressed me more than the high potential of Limniona in the hand of Christos Zafeirakis. To all of you keen on our varieties, Limniona (Greek spelling with omega) is not to be confused with Limnio. Let’s look as to what has been unfolding in Tyrnavos. In his late twenties, Christos Zafeirakis will be much talked about in the future. A brilliant farmer and oenologist with valuable work experience in Northern Italy, he comes across far more mature than his age. He and others such as Louiza and Thanos Dougos and Melina Tassou are the latest clutch of breezy characters to enliven the wine scene.

First glance, the rather dowdy front label has the outline of a mechanism in the background. For an instant, it reminded me of a navigation instrument, such as a sextant, and then the fascinating Antikythera instrument – an early computer of sorts. Well, the forensics of the front label are divulged on the back label. It states that it is a piece of a watch unearthed in the vineyard where the densely planted (in 2005) Limniona took a new lease of life. And who does not have a label story. The Scops owl heard late at night by the label designer. Or the engraved initials of the Polish stonemason found by accident while picnicking on the terraced vineyards in Switzerland’s Valais. The current crop of Greek labels is in dire need of improvement. If one opens their eyes and ears a little, who knows what is right there under our nose.

So, what is all the fuss for such a young vine ‘newcomer’? Many sub plots. Some clues. The vines are trained high to achieve balanced, fully ripened, grapes. The little that is known by technicians is that this thick skinned grape has remarkable resistance to oxidisation, hence ageing potential. Since 2000, much thought and research has been done by Zafeirakis and a leading nursery. It is ongoing, as the farming know-how of this virtual unknown has only just started to be documented. From my front row seat, fascinating stuff. For wine lovers it is nothing but good news.

The grapes were initially fermented in a large wooden vat and then aged in second and third fill French oak barriques. Vivid medium-dark, not unlike a great Burgundy. Blossoming into a fruited spice. A new to me aroma; so far nothing remotely like it in the Greek vineyard. A nod of herbs. Creamy. Classy. Despite the ‘heat’ of the vintage, a refreshingly present acidity. Lacey. At this stage, a little facile (young vine playfulness) on the finish. With bottle ageing, it will open up. One of the most exciting ‘re-discoveries’. Available as of autumn 2009.

Score: 16,5/20

Contact e-mail : zafeirakischristos@gmail.com

If your travel’s take you to Litochoro on Mt. Olympus, the only address pre-viewing the maiden vintage of this Limniona, enjoy(responsibly) their hand crafted Kozani saffron flavoured tsipouro. www.gastrodromio.gr